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- Austera Peak
8,332 ft · Cascade Range, Washington
Austera Peak
Austera Peak is an 8,332 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the Klawatti Glacier and Southeast Ridge: 14 mi, 6,500 ft of gain, Class 5.
Photo: Ron Clausen, CC BY-SA 4.0
Austera Peak at a glance
- Elevation8,332 ft2,539 m
- RouteKlawatti Glacier and Southeast RidgeClass 5
- Distance14 mi6,500 ft gain
- Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeCascade RangeWashington
Climbing the Klawatti Glacier and Southeast Ridge
From Marblemount, drive the Cascade River Road to the Eldorado parking area at mile 20 and follow the Eldorado climbers path and glacier up to the Inspiration Glacier. Traverse to Klawatti Col, cross the McAllister Glacier to the Klawatti-Austera col, and rappel or downclimb Class 4 rock onto the Klawatti Glacier. Climb snow to the summit ridge, scramble past the false summit on exposed Class 3 to 4 ledges or up a chockstone gully, and make a few low fifth class moves to the top. Bring a short rope and small rack. Camping needs a North Cascades backcountry permit.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Mountaineering Boots
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
Glacier Glasses
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Technical climbing
- Loose rock
Quests with Austera Peak
Washington 100 HighestFrequently asked questions
How tall is Austera Peak?
Austera Peak is 8,332 feet (2,539 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.
How hard is it to climb Austera Peak?
The Klawatti Glacier and Southeast Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 14 miles with 6,500 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Austera Peak?
Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the Klawatti Glacier and Southeast Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Austera Peak dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Austera Peak?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Klawatti Glacier and Southeast Ridge, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb Austera Peak?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Austera Peak with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list