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8,377 ft · Cascade Range, Washington

Big Snagtooth

Big Snagtooth is an 8,377 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the West Ridge via Willow Creek: 7 mi, 4,500 ft of gain, Class 5.

Big Snagtooth at a glance

  • Elevation8,377 ft2,553 m
  • RouteWest Ridge via Willow CreekClass 5
  • Distance7 mi4,500 ft gain
  • Time9 – 11 hrsVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJun – Sep
  • RangeCascade RangeWashington

Climbing the West Ridge via Willow Creek

From Winthrop, drive SR 20 west past Mazama to the highway pullout about 3.5 miles east of the Washington Pass hairpin. Drop to Early Winters Creek, cross on a log, and bushwhack open forest high on the north side of Willow Creek into the upper basin. Climb loose scree or snow to the west ridge and follow it to the col below the summit. A short chimney of Class 4 to low fifth class leads to a scree gully, then a smooth slab with one unprotected 5.7 move guards the top, often done with a shoulder stand. Bring a short rope, a few cams and rock shoes, and rappel the block.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (35–55 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Technical climbing
  • Loose rock
  • Steep exposure
  • Route-finding difficulty

Quests with Big Snagtooth

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Big Snagtooth?

Big Snagtooth is 8,377 feet (2,553 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.

How hard is it to climb Big Snagtooth?

The West Ridge via Willow Creek is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 7 miles with 4,500 feet of elevation gain.

How long does it take to climb Big Snagtooth?

Most people take 9 – 11 hours round trip on the West Ridge via Willow Creek, covering 7 miles with 4,500 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.

Is Big Snagtooth dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious, rockfall from loose rock and tricky route-finding. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.

Do you need a rope to climb Big Snagtooth?

Most parties bring one. The West Ridge via Willow Creek is Class 5, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.

When is the best time to climb Big Snagtooth?

The usual climbing window is June to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Big Snagtooth with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list