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- Bonanza Peak
9,506 ft · Cascade Range, Washington
Bonanza Peak
Bonanza Peak is a 9,506 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the Mary Green Glacier: 14 mi, 6,300 ft of gain, Class 4.
Photo: Martin Bravenboer, CC BY 2.0
Bonanza Peak at a glance
- Elevation9,506 ft2,897 m
- RouteMary Green GlacierClass 4
- Distance14 mi6,300 ft gain
- Time3 – 4 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Aug
- RangeCascade RangeWashington
Climbing the Mary Green Glacier
Ride the Lady of the Lake to Lucerne, take the Holden Village bus up Railroad Creek Road (FSR 8301), and walk a mile to the Holden Ballpark trailhead. FSR 8301 is closed to all travel through 2027 after storm damage, so confirm access first. Hike to Holden Lake and camp at Holden Pass, climb wet slabs onto the Mary Green Glacier, cross the bergschrund atop the snow finger, then scramble Class 4 gullies and a loose ridge to the summit horn. The bergschrund widens all summer, so early July is best. Fill out the free wilderness permit at the trailhead and plan 3 to 4 days.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Mountaineering Boots
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
Glacier Glasses
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Loose rock
- Steep exposure
- Remote location
Quests with Bonanza Peak
Washington 100 HighestPeaks near Bonanza Peak
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Bonanza Peak?
Bonanza Peak is 9,506 feet (2,897 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.
How hard is it to climb Bonanza Peak?
The Mary Green Glacier is Class 4, which means exposed scrambling, where many parties bring a rope. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 14 miles with 6,300 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Bonanza Peak?
Most climbers plan 3 – 4 days for the Mary Green Glacier, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Bonanza Peak dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Bonanza Peak?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Mary Green Glacier, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb Bonanza Peak?
The usual climbing window is July to August. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Bonanza Peak with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list