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8,886 ft · Cascade Range, Washington

Boston Peak

Boston Peak is an 8,886 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the Southeast Face via Quien Sabe Glacier: 11 mi, 5,700 ft of gain, Class 4.

Boston Peak in the Cascade Range, Washington

Photo: Walter Siegmund, CC BY-SA 3.0

Boston Peak at a glance

  • Elevation8,886 ft2,708 m
  • RouteSoutheast Face via Quien Sabe GlacierClass 4
  • Distance11 mi5,700 ft gain
  • Time1 – 2 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeCascade RangeWashington

Climbing the Southeast Face via Quien Sabe Glacier

From Marblemount, drive the Cascade River Road to the Boston Basin parking area near mile 22.5. Walk the old Diamond Mine road about a mile, then climb a steep climbers trail to camps in Boston Basin. Rope up on the Quien Sabe Glacier to the Boston-Sahale col, follow an exposed ridge around the false summit, and climb two short Class 4 pitches up a chimney on notoriously loose rock; most parties rappel down. Helmets are essential and the bergschrund grows late season. Camping in the basin needs a North Cascades backcountry permit picked up in Marblemount.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Mountaineering Boots
  • Gaiters
  • Crampons
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet
  • Rope
  • Harness
  • Carabiners
  • Belay Device
  • Glacier Glasses

What to watch for

  • Loose rock
  • Rockfall
  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Steep exposure

Quests with Boston Peak

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Boston Peak?

Boston Peak is 8,886 feet (2,708 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.

How hard is it to climb Boston Peak?

The Southeast Face via Quien Sabe Glacier is Class 4, which means exposed scrambling, where many parties bring a rope. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 11 miles with 5,700 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Boston Peak?

Most climbers plan 1 – 2 days for the Southeast Face via Quien Sabe Glacier, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Boston Peak dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Boston Peak?

Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Southeast Face via Quien Sabe Glacier, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

When is the best time to climb Boston Peak?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Boston Peak with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list