20,310 ft · Alaska Range, Alaska
Denali
Denali is a 20,310 ft peak in the Alaska Range, Alaska. The standard route is the West Buttress: 35 mi, 16,335 ft of gain, Class 4.
Denali at a glance
- Elevation20,310 ft6,190 m
- RouteWest ButtressClass 4
- Distance35 mi16,335 ft gain
- Time2 – 3 wksExtreme effort
- SeasonMay – June
- RangeAlaska RangeAlaska
Climbing the West Buttress
Fly to Talkeetna, Alaska, then take a glacier ski plane to the Kahiltna Glacier basecamp at 7,200 feet. The West Buttress is the standard route used by about 90% of climbers. Register with the Talkeetna Ranger Station 60+ days in advance; a Denali mountaineering permit and fees are mandatory. This is a serious arctic expedition requiring 2-3 weeks on the mountain with significant crevasse hazards, extreme cold (-40F possible), and severe storms that can pin teams down for days. Cache management and proper acclimatization are critical to success. Most teams move through 4-5 camps. Summit success rate is around 50%.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (75–100 L)
Crampons
Gaiters
Helmet
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device
Ice Axe
Harness
Two-Way Radio
Headlamp
Mountaineering Boots
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Sun Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Expedition Mittens
Trekking Poles
Satellite Communicator
GPS Device
Power Bank
Sleeping Bag (-20°F to -40°F)
Sleeping Pad
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Sunscreen
Hiking Boots
Water
Whistle
First-Aid Kit
Offline Maps
What to watch for
- High altitude
- Extreme cold
- Storms
- Crevasses
- Glacier travel
- Altitude sickness
- Steep exposure
- High winds
- Avalanches
- Low visibility
- Technical climbing
- Remote location
- Serac fall
Quests with Denali
50 State Highpoints
Seven SummitsFrequently asked questions
How tall is Denali?
Denali is 20,310 feet (6,190 m) tall. It is in the Alaska Range, Alaska.
Is Denali the highest point in Alaska?
Yes. At 20,310 feet, Denali is the highest point in Alaska.
How hard is it to climb Denali?
The West Buttress is Class 4, which means exposed scrambling, where many parties bring a rope. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 35 miles with 16,335 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Denali?
Denali is an expedition: most climbers plan 2 – 3 weeks for the West Buttress, much of it spent acclimatizing between camps.
Do you need a permit to climb Denali?
Yes. Denali National Park requires climbers to register at least 60 days ahead, pay a special use fee and attend a ranger orientation in Talkeetna before flying to the glacier. Check current rules with the park before you plan.
Is Denali dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Denali?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the West Buttress, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Denali?
Yes. At 20,310 feet, Denali is high enough for serious altitude illness. Climbers acclimatize over days or weeks, climbing high and sleeping low, and descend at the first signs of trouble.
When is the best time to climb Denali?
The usual climbing window is May to June. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Where can I check avalanche conditions for Denali?
Check the avalanche forecast at alaskasnow.org before any trip with snow on the route.
Can you hire a guide to climb Denali?
Yes. Guide services that lead climbs of Denali include RMI, Alpine Ascents and Mountain Trip.
Climb Denali with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list