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8,449 ft · Cascade Range, Washington

Dorado Needle

Dorado Needle is an 8,449 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the Northwest Ridge: 12 mi, 7,700 ft of gain, Class 5.

Dorado Needle in the Cascade Range, Washington

Photo: Trailspotter, CC BY 2.0

Dorado Needle at a glance

  • Elevation8,449 ft2,575 m
  • RouteNorthwest RidgeClass 5
  • Distance12 mi7,700 ft gain
  • Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeCascade RangeWashington

Climbing the Northwest Ridge

From Marblemount, drive the Cascade River Road to the Eldorado parking area at mile 20 and follow the Eldorado climbers path to the Eldorado Glacier. Traverse the Inspiration Glacier to the col near Tepeh Towers, drop onto the McAllister Glacier, and weave around deep crevasses to the Northwest Ridge. Two short pitches of 5.4 granite with an exposed au cheval move reach the summit; a moat can block the rock late season. Bring a small rack and a 60 m rope for the rappel. Most parties camp near Eldorado with a North Cascades backcountry permit from Marblemount.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Mountaineering Boots
  • Gaiters
  • Crampons
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet
  • Rope
  • Harness
  • Carabiners
  • Belay Device
  • Glacier Glasses

What to watch for

  • Technical climbing
  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Steep exposure

Quests with Dorado Needle

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Dorado Needle?

Dorado Needle is 8,449 feet (2,575 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.

How hard is it to climb Dorado Needle?

The Northwest Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 12 miles with 7,700 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Dorado Needle?

Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the Northwest Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Dorado Needle dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Dorado Needle?

Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Northwest Ridge, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

When is the best time to climb Dorado Needle?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Dorado Needle with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list