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- Easy Mox
8,421 ft · Cascade Range, Washington
Easy Mox
Easy Mox is an 8,421 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the Northeast Ridge: 22 mi, 6,800 ft of gain, Class 5.
Easy Mox at a glance
- Elevation8,421 ft2,566 m
- RouteNortheast RidgeClass 5
- Distance22 mi6,800 ft gain
- Time3 – 4 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeCascade RangeWashington
Climbing the Northeast Ridge
From Chilliwack, BC, drive Chilliwack Lake Road to Depot Creek Road, park at the gate, and walk to the border and up Depot Creek to Ouzel Lake. Climb onto the Redoubt Glacier and cross it west to a snow finger below the NW spire's Northeast Ridge. Two slab pitches (4th to low 5th) gain the ridge, an exposed Class 3-4 scramble, and a final 5.6 pitch ends near the top. Rappel the route. The glacier is crevassed late in summer. US law requires entering at a port of entry, which this walk-in skips. A North Cascades backcountry permit is required; get it at the Marblemount Wilderness Information Center.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Mountaineering Boots
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
Glacier Glasses
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Crevasses
- Steep exposure
- Loose rock
- Complex logistics
Quests with Easy Mox
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Easy Mox?
Easy Mox is 8,421 feet (2,566 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.
How hard is it to climb Easy Mox?
The Northeast Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 22 miles with 6,800 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Easy Mox?
Most climbers plan 3 – 4 days for the Northeast Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Easy Mox dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Easy Mox?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Northeast Ridge, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb Easy Mox?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Easy Mox with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list