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14,159 ft · San Juan Mountains, Colorado

El Diente Peak

El Diente Peak is a 14,159 ft peak in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado. The standard route is the South Slopes: 11 mi, 4,294 ft of gain, Class 3.

El Diente Peak in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado

El Diente Peak at a glance

  • Elevation14,159 ft4,315 m
  • RouteSouth SlopesClass 3
  • Distance11 mi4,294 ft gain
  • Time8 – 12 hrsVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeSan Juan MountainsColorado

Climbing the South Slopes

From Telluride, Colorado, drive south on Highway 145 and turn onto the Dunton Road toward Navajo Lake trailhead (high clearance recommended). The approach passes beautiful Navajo Lake. The upper mountain involves loose, complex Class 3 terrain with significant exposure on ledges and in gullies. Commonly traversed with Mount Wilson via the connecting ridge, which adds considerable difficulty and time. Helmets are essential due to rockfall hazard. Start very early (2-3am) for the traverse. Route-finding skills are critical. One of Colorado's most challenging 14er combinations. Only for experienced mountain scramblers.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (30–40 L)
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Helmet
  • Rope
  • Harness
  • Carabiners
  • Belay Device
  • Whistle
  • Hiking Boots
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Sun Hat
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen

What to watch for

  • Steep exposure
  • Loose rock
  • Storms
  • Snow near summit
  • Ice near summit
  • Low visibility
  • Rockfall
  • High altitude
  • Altitude sickness
  • High winds
  • Route-finding difficulty

Quests with El Diente Peak

Peaks near El Diente Peak

  1. Mount Wilson

    Mount Wilson

    14,252 ft · 0.8 mi away

  2. UN 13,575 (near Wilson Peak)

    UN 13,575 (near Wilson Peak)

    13,575 ft · 1.2 mi away

  3. Gladstone Peak

    Gladstone Peak

    13,923 ft · 1.2 mi away

  4. Fowler Peak

    Fowler Peak

    13,507 ft · 1.3 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is El Diente Peak?

El Diente Peak is 14,159 feet (4,315 m) tall. It is in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado.

How does El Diente Peak rank among the Colorado 14ers?

At 14,159 feet, El Diente Peak is the 28th highest of the 58 Colorado 14ers. The highest is Mount Elbert.

How hard is it to climb El Diente Peak?

The South Slopes is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 11 miles with 4,294 feet of elevation gain.

How long does it take to climb El Diente Peak?

Most people take 8 – 12 hours round trip on the South Slopes, covering 11 miles with 4,294 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.

Is El Diente Peak dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious, rockfall from loose rock and fast-changing weather. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.

Do you need a rope to climb El Diente Peak?

Most parties bring one. The South Slopes is Class 3, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.

Will you get altitude sickness on El Diente Peak?

You might. Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and El Diente Peak reaches 14,159 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.

What time should you start climbing El Diente Peak?

Early. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, so aim to be off the summit and the exposed upper mountain by early afternoon. At 8 – 12 hours round trip, many parties start in the dark.

When is the best time to climb El Diente Peak?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

What is the trailhead elevation for El Diente Peak?

The South Slopes starts at about 10,090 feet, roughly 4,069 feet below the summit.

What routes go up El Diente Peak?

The standard route is the South Slopes. Other routes include the Combo: El Diente Peak and Mount Wilson and the Combo: El Diente Peak, Mount Wilson and Wilson Peak.

Climb El Diente Peak with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list