- …
- Yak
- Quests
- Washington 100 Highest
- Eldorado Peak
8,864 ft · Cascade Range, Washington
Eldorado Peak
Eldorado Peak is an 8,864 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the East Ridge via Inspiration Glacier: 10 mi, 6,716 ft of gain, Class 3.
Eldorado Peak at a glance
- Elevation8,864 ft2,701 m
- RouteEast Ridge via Inspiration GlacierClass 3
- Distance10 mi6,716 ft gain
- Time1 – 2 daysHard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeCascade RangeWashington
Climbing the East Ridge via Inspiration Glacier
From Marblemount, drive the Cascade River Road to the Eldorado parking area at mile 20. Cross the North Fork Cascade River on logs or by wading, then climb a steep unmaintained path and a long boulder field to Eldorado Basin. Cross a rib near 6,100 ft into Roush Creek basin, rope up on the Eldorado and Inspiration glaciers, and finish on the narrow East Ridge snow arete. The route is Class 3 with crevasse hazard and big exposure on the knife edge. Expect a long, steep approach. Camping on the glacier needs a North Cascades backcountry permit picked up in Marblemount.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Mountaineering Boots
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
Glacier Glasses
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Knife-edge ridge
- Stream crossing
- Loose rock
Quests with Eldorado Peak
Washington 100 HighestFrequently asked questions
How tall is Eldorado Peak?
Eldorado Peak is 8,864 feet (2,701 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.
How hard is it to climb Eldorado Peak?
The East Ridge via Inspiration Glacier is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort hard: 10 miles with 6,716 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Eldorado Peak?
Most climbers plan 1 – 2 days for the East Ridge via Inspiration Glacier, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Eldorado Peak dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Eldorado Peak?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the East Ridge via Inspiration Glacier, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb Eldorado Peak?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Eldorado Peak with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list