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- Forbidden Peak
8,825 ft · Cascade Range, Washington
Forbidden Peak
Forbidden Peak is an 8,825 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the West Ridge: 8 mi, 5,600 ft of gain, Class 5.
Photo: Walter Siegmund, CC BY-SA 3.0
Forbidden Peak at a glance
- Elevation8,825 ft2,689 m
- RouteWest RidgeClass 5
- Distance8 mi5,600 ft gain
- Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeCascade RangeWashington
Climbing the West Ridge
From Marblemount, drive the Cascade River Road to the Boston Basin parking area near mile 22.5 and climb the old mine road and steep climbers trail to high camp in Boston Basin. Cross a small glacier to the West Ridge couloir, climb steep snow (or Class 4 rock late season) to the notch, then follow the exposed West Ridge on mostly solid rock up to 5.6. Expect running belays, several rappels on the descent, and moats in the couloir. Start very early, since many parties finish in the dark. Camping needs a North Cascades backcountry permit, which fills fast for Boston Basin.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Mountaineering Boots
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
Glacier Glasses
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Rockfall
- Glacier travel
Quests with Forbidden Peak
Washington 100 HighestFrequently asked questions
How tall is Forbidden Peak?
Forbidden Peak is 8,825 feet (2,689 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.
How hard is it to climb Forbidden Peak?
The West Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 8 miles with 5,600 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Forbidden Peak?
Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the West Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Forbidden Peak dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Forbidden Peak?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the West Ridge, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb Forbidden Peak?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Forbidden Peak with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list