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- Klawatti Peak
8,490 ft · Cascade Range, Washington
Klawatti Peak
Klawatti Peak is an 8,490 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the Southwest Ridge: 11 mi, 6,235 ft of gain, Class 5.
Photo: Walter Siegmund, CC BY 2.5
Klawatti Peak at a glance
- Elevation8,490 ft2,587 m
- RouteSouthwest RidgeClass 5
- Distance11 mi6,235 ft gain
- Time2 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeCascade RangeWashington
Climbing the Southwest Ridge
From Marblemount, drive the Cascade River Road to the Eldorado parking area at mile 20, cross the river, and follow the steep Eldorado climbers path and boulder field to Roush Creek basin. Rope up on the Eldorado Glacier and traverse the Inspiration Glacier around 7,800 ft to Klawatti Col. In summer the Southwest Ridge starts with a short low fifth class pitch above a moat, then loose Class 3 scrambling to the summit; early season the South Face is a steep snow climb. One 60 m rappel returns to the snow. Camping needs a North Cascades backcountry permit from Marblemount.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Mountaineering Boots
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
Glacier Glasses
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Technical climbing
- Loose rock
Quests with Klawatti Peak
Washington 100 HighestFrequently asked questions
How tall is Klawatti Peak?
Klawatti Peak is 8,490 feet (2,587 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.
How hard is it to climb Klawatti Peak?
The Southwest Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 11 miles with 6,235 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Klawatti Peak?
Most climbers plan 2 days for the Southwest Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Klawatti Peak dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Klawatti Peak?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Southwest Ridge, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb Klawatti Peak?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Klawatti Peak with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list