- …
- Yak
- Quests
- Lower 48 14ers
- Liberty Cap
14,112 ft · Cascade Range, Washington
Liberty Cap
Liberty Cap is a 14,112 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the Liberty Ridge: 12 mi, 11,500 ft of gain, Class 4.
Liberty Cap at a glance
- Elevation14,112 ft4,301 m
- RouteLiberty RidgeClass 4
- Distance12 mi11,500 ft gain
- Time3 – 5 daysExtreme effort
- SeasonMay – Jun
- RangeCascade RangeWashington
Climbing the Liberty Ridge
Liberty Cap is the north summit of Mount Rainier, accessed from Ashford, WA. It is most often climbed via Liberty Ridge - steep snow and ice, one of the most serious and committing routes on the mountain - or traversed from Columbia Crest. A full glaciated expedition with crevasse, rockfall, and icefall hazard; rope teams, crampons, ice axe, and glacier skills are mandatory. A climbing permit and park pass are required. Objective hazards are high; for experienced alpinists only. A coveted, difficult second summit of Rainier.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (50–65 L)
Water
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Whistle
Offline Maps- Compass
- Paper Map
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Two-Way Radio
Headlamp
Power Bank
Mountaineering Boots
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Belay Device
Carabiners
Trekking Poles
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Midweight Gloves
Heavyweight Gloves
Buff
Sun Hat
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Sunscreen
Sleeping Bag (0°F to 20°F)
Sleeping Pad
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Icefall
- Rockfall
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Avalanches
- Extreme cold
- Steep exposure
- High altitude
- Rapid weather shifts
- Altitude sickness
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Remote location
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
Quests with Liberty Cap
Lower 48 14ersPeaks near Liberty Cap
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Liberty Cap?
Liberty Cap is 14,112 feet (4,301 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.
How does Liberty Cap rank among the Lower 48 14ers?
At 14,112 feet, Liberty Cap is the 40th highest of the 72 Lower 48 14ers. The highest is Mount Whitney.
How hard is it to climb Liberty Cap?
The Liberty Ridge is Class 4, which means exposed scrambling, where many parties bring a rope. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 12 miles with 11,500 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Liberty Cap?
Most climbers plan 3 – 5 days for the Liberty Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Liberty Cap dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Liberty Cap?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Liberty Ridge for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Liberty Cap?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Liberty Cap reaches 14,112 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Liberty Cap?
The usual climbing window is May to June. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Liberty Cap with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list