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13,718 ft · Sierra Nevada, California

Mount Abbot

Mount Abbot is a 13,718 ft peak in the Sierra Nevada, California. The standard route is the Northeast Couloir: 10 mi, 3,675 ft of gain, Class 3.

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Mount Abbot in the Sierra Nevada, California

Photo: Marty B, CC BY-SA 2.0

Mount Abbot at a glance

  • Elevation13,718 ft4,181 m
  • RouteNortheast CouloirClass 3
  • Distance10 mi3,675 ft gain
  • Time9 – 11 hrsVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeSierra NevadaCalifornia

Climbing the Northeast Couloir

From Toms Place on US 395, drive Rock Creek Road to Mosquito Flat. Take the Mono Pass Trail to Ruby Lake, pass it on the east shore, and continue cross-country up the drainage to Mills Lake. Climb the big snow couloir on the northeast face (about 40 degrees), exit right onto loose Class 3 rock, and follow cairns to the crest. A narrow knife-edge section is bypassed on its west side before easy ground leads to the summit plateau. Bring an ice axe and crampons, plus a helmet for rocks falling from the left side of the couloir as it warms.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (30–40 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet

What to watch for

  • Rockfall
  • Loose rock
  • Steep exposure
  • Snow near summit
  • High altitude

Quests with Mount Abbot

Peaks near Mount Abbot

  1. North Palisade

    North Palisade

    14,248 ft · 25.1 mi away

  2. Mount Sill

    Mount Sill

    14,159 ft · 25.3 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Abbot?

Mount Abbot is 13,718 feet (4,181 m) tall. It is in the Sierra Nevada, California.

How hard is it to climb Mount Abbot?

The Northeast Couloir is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 10 miles with 3,675 feet of elevation gain.

How long does it take to climb Mount Abbot?

Most people take 9 – 11 hours round trip on the Northeast Couloir, covering 10 miles with 3,675 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.

Is Mount Abbot dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.

Do you need a helmet for Mount Abbot?

It is a good idea. Loose rock and rockfall are common on the Northeast Couloir, so a helmet is on the gear list.

Will you get altitude sickness on Mount Abbot?

You might. Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Mount Abbot reaches 13,718 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.

When is the best time to climb Mount Abbot?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Abbot with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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