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- Mount Gardiner
12,901 ft · Sierra Nevada, California
Mount Gardiner
Mount Gardiner is a 12,901 ft peak in the Sierra Nevada, California. The standard route is the East Chute and South Summit Traverse: 28 mi, 7,355 ft of gain, Class 4.
Mount Gardiner at a glance
- Elevation12,901 ft3,932 m
- RouteEast Chute and South Summit TraverseClass 4
- Distance28 mi7,355 ft gain
- Time3 – 4 daysExtreme effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeSierra NevadaCalifornia
Climbing the East Chute and South Summit Traverse
From Independence, drive Onion Valley Road about 13 miles to the Onion Valley trailhead. Backpack over Kearsarge Pass and Glen Pass to Rae Lakes, take the spur trail into Sixty Lake Basin, then cross Sixty Lakes Col into Gardiner Basin. The east chute is Class 2 to the south summit, followed by an exposed Class 4 knife-edge traverse to the higher north summit, and many parties bring a short rope. Old snow can fill the chute into midsummer. An Inyo National Forest wilderness permit is required and the quota fills months ahead on Recreation.gov. Rae Lakes has a one-night limit and bear canisters are mandatory.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Belay Device
Carabiners
What to watch for
- Knife-edge ridge
- Steep exposure
- Loose rock
- Remote location
- Snow near summit
Quests with Mount Gardiner
Sierra Peaks SectionPeaks near Mount Gardiner
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Mount Gardiner?
Mount Gardiner is 12,901 feet (3,932 m) tall. It is in the Sierra Nevada, California.
How hard is it to climb Mount Gardiner?
The East Chute and South Summit Traverse is Class 4, which means exposed scrambling, where many parties bring a rope. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 28 miles with 7,355 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Mount Gardiner?
Most climbers plan 3 – 4 days for the East Chute and South Summit Traverse, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Mount Gardiner dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.
Do you need a rope to climb Mount Gardiner?
Most parties bring one. The East Chute and South Summit Traverse is Class 4, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Mount Gardiner?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Mount Gardiner reaches 12,901 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Mount Gardiner?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Mount Gardiner with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list