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13,115 ft · Sierra Nevada, California

Mount Huxley

Mount Huxley is a 13,115 ft peak in the Sierra Nevada, California. The standard route is the Northeast Ridge: 20 mi, 7,725 ft of gain, Class 3.

Mount Huxley in the Sierra Nevada, California

Photo: Jeff P, CC BY 2.0

Mount Huxley at a glance

  • Elevation13,115 ft3,997 m
  • RouteNortheast RidgeClass 3
  • Distance20 mi7,725 ft gain
  • Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeSierra NevadaCalifornia

Climbing the Northeast Ridge

From Bishop, drive Highway 168 west about 18 miles to the Lake Sabrina trailhead, parking overnight near the North Lake turnoff. Follow the Sabrina Basin Trail toward Hungry Packer Lake and go cross-country past Moonlight Lake into the cirque between Haeckel and Wallace. Cross the crest and descend into the basin northeast of Huxley above Evolution Basin, then climb the Northeast Ridge, a Class 3 scramble. Avoid the ridge toward Warlow, which goes at Class 4. Expect long talus, loose chutes and a big climb back over the crest. Camp in the basin with an Inyo National Forest wilderness permit, reserved up to six months ahead.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet

What to watch for

  • Loose rock
  • Route-finding difficulty
  • Remote location
  • Rapid weather shifts

Quests with Mount Huxley

Peaks near Mount Huxley

  1. North Palisade

    North Palisade

    14,248 ft · 9.7 mi away

  2. Mount Sill

    Mount Sill

    14,159 ft · 10.3 mi away

  3. Middle Palisade

    Middle Palisade

    14,012 ft · 12.6 mi away

  4. Split Mountain

    Split Mountain

    14,064 ft · 16.4 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Huxley?

Mount Huxley is 13,115 feet (3,997 m) tall. It is in the Sierra Nevada, California.

How hard is it to climb Mount Huxley?

The Northeast Ridge is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 20 miles with 7,725 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Mount Huxley?

Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the Northeast Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Mount Huxley dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: rockfall from loose rock, fast-changing weather and tricky route-finding. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.

Do you need a helmet for Mount Huxley?

It is a good idea. Loose rock and rockfall are common on the Northeast Ridge, so a helmet is on the gear list.

Do you need to acclimatize to climb Mount Huxley?

Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Mount Huxley reaches 13,115 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.

When is the best time to climb Mount Huxley?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Huxley with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list