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- Mount Lyell
13,111 ft · Sierra Nevada, California
Mount Lyell
Mount Lyell is a 13,111 ft peak in the Sierra Nevada, California. The standard route is the Lyell Glacier Route: 27 mi, 4,665 ft of gain, Class 3.
Mount Lyell at a glance
- Elevation13,111 ft3,996 m
- RouteLyell Glacier RouteClass 3
- Distance27 mi4,665 ft gain
- Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeSierra NevadaCalifornia
Climbing the Lyell Glacier Route
In Yosemite, take Tioga Road (CA 120) to Tuolumne Meadows and the John Muir Trail parking on the lodge road. Follow the JMT through Lyell Canyon and up toward Donohue Pass, then turn south cross-country past small lakes to the shrinking Lyell glacier. Climb the snowfield toward the Lyell-Maclure col and finish on a short, exposed Class 3 ridge to Yosemite's highest summit. The snow is firm in the morning, so carry axe and crampons, and watch for rockfall near the col. Maclure is a short add-on. Most parties camp in upper Lyell Canyon with a Yosemite wilderness permit.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Helmet
What to watch for
- Snow near summit
- Steep exposure
- Rockfall
- Storms
Quests with Mount Lyell
Sierra Peaks SectionFrequently asked questions
How tall is Mount Lyell?
Mount Lyell is 13,111 feet (3,996 m) tall. It is in the Sierra Nevada, California.
How hard is it to climb Mount Lyell?
The Lyell Glacier Route is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 27 miles with 4,665 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Mount Lyell?
Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the Lyell Glacier Route, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Mount Lyell dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious, rockfall from loose rock and fast-changing weather. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.
Do you need a helmet for Mount Lyell?
It is a good idea. Loose rock and rockfall are common on the Lyell Glacier Route, so a helmet is on the gear list.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Mount Lyell?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Mount Lyell reaches 13,111 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Mount Lyell?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Mount Lyell with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list