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12,972 ft · Rainbow Range, British Columbia

Mount Robson

Mount Robson is a 12,972 ft peak in the Rainbow Range, British Columbia. The standard route is the Kain Face to Southeast Ridge via Patterson Spur: 21 mi, 10,236 ft of gain, Class 5.

Mount Robson in the Rainbow Range, British Columbia

Mount Robson at a glance

  • Elevation12,972 ft3,953 m
  • RouteKain Face to Southeast Ridge via Patterson SpurClass 5
  • Distance21 mi10,236 ft gain
  • Time3 – 5 daysExtreme effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeRainbow RangeBritish Columbia

Climbing the Kain Face to Southeast Ridge via Patterson Spur

From Jasper, drive west on Highway 16 into Mount Robson Provincial Park and follow Kinney Lake Road to the Berg Lake Trailhead. Bike or hike 7 km to Kinney Lake, take the flagged Patterson Spur climbers' trail to a bench near 2,100 m, then scramble the 4th to low 5th class spur and towers to the Robson-Resplendent col and camp on the Dome. The Kain Face (IV) is about five pitches of 50-degree snow and ice, followed by a corniced ridge and the Roof to the summit. Serac fall, avalanches and storms are constant, and only about 10% of attempts succeed. Plan 3 to 5 days and fill out the voluntary climber registration at the trailhead.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Serac fall
  • Avalanches
  • Cornices
  • Crevasses
  • Rapid weather shifts

Quests with Mount Robson

Peaks near Mount Robson

  1. The Helmet

    The Helmet

    11,214 ft · 0.7 mi away

  2. Resplendent Mountain

    Resplendent Mountain

    11,181 ft · 2.9 mi away

  3. Whitehorn Mountain

    Whitehorn Mountain

    11,152 ft · 5.0 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Robson?

Mount Robson is 12,972 feet (3,953 m) tall. It is in the Rainbow Range, British Columbia.

Is Mount Robson the highest of the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

Yes. At 12,972 feet, Mount Robson is the tallest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers.

How hard is it to climb Mount Robson?

The Kain Face to Southeast Ridge via Patterson Spur is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 21 miles with 10,236 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Mount Robson?

Most climbers plan 3 – 5 days for the Kain Face to Southeast Ridge via Patterson Spur, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Mount Robson dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and fast-changing weather. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need an ice axe for Mount Robson?

Plan on it. An ice axe is on the gear list for the Kain Face to Southeast Ridge via Patterson Spur for the snow and ice on the upper mountain. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

Do you need to acclimatize to climb Mount Robson?

Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Mount Robson reaches 12,972 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.

When is the best time to climb Mount Robson?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Robson with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list