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9,125 ft · Cascade Range, Washington

Mount Shuksan

Mount Shuksan is a 9,125 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the Sulphide Glacier: 16 mi, 6,500 ft of gain, Class 3.

Mount Shuksan in the Cascade Range, Washington

Mount Shuksan at a glance

  • Elevation9,125 ft2,781 m
  • RouteSulphide GlacierClass 3
  • Distance16 mi6,500 ft gain
  • Time2 daysHard effort
  • SeasonJun – Sep
  • RangeCascade RangeWashington

Climbing the Sulphide Glacier

From SR 20 near Concrete, take Baker Lake Road 24 miles to Forest Road 1152 by Shannon Creek Campground, then FR 1152-014 to its end; the roads are rough but passable. Hike the Shannon Ridge Trail onto the ridge and into the national park, then camp near 6,200 to 6,500 ft below the Sulphide Glacier. Rope up for the gentle glacier, which opens up late in summer, to the summit pyramid, a Class 3 gully that holds snow early. Helmets matter with several parties on loose rock. A Northwest Forest Pass is needed to park, and a North Cascades backcountry permit is required to camp.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Mountaineering Boots
  • Gaiters
  • Crampons
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet
  • Rope
  • Harness
  • Carabiners
  • Belay Device
  • Glacier Glasses

What to watch for

  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Loose rock
  • Steep exposure
  • Rapid weather shifts

Quests with Mount Shuksan

Peaks near Mount Shuksan

  1. Mount Baker

    Mount Baker

    10,781 ft · 10.3 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Shuksan?

Mount Shuksan is 9,125 feet (2,781 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.

How hard is it to climb Mount Shuksan?

The Sulphide Glacier is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort hard: 16 miles with 6,500 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Mount Shuksan?

Most climbers plan 2 days for the Sulphide Glacier, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Mount Shuksan dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Mount Shuksan?

Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Sulphide Glacier, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

When is the best time to climb Mount Shuksan?

The usual climbing window is June to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Shuksan with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list