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11,191 ft · Spray Mountains, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount Sir Douglas

Mount Sir Douglas is an 11,191 ft peak in the Spray Mountains, Alberta/British Columbia. The standard route is the West Ridge: 16 mi, 8,202 ft of gain, Class 5.

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Mount Sir Douglas in the Spray Mountains, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount Sir Douglas at a glance

  • Elevation11,191 ft3,411 m
  • RouteWest RidgeClass 5
  • Distance16 mi8,202 ft gain
  • Time2 daysExtreme effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeSpray MountainsAlberta/British Columbia

Climbing the West Ridge

From Canmore, drive the Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail (Highway 742) to the Burstall Pass Day Use Area. Follow the Burstall Pass trail, cross moraine and glacier terrain to South Burstall Pass and drop into Banff National Park to bivy below the West Ridge. The ridge is a long alpine climb on loose rock with 4th class ground and a short 5.2 crux, with rappel stations for the descent. Rockfall, loose rock, glacier travel and exposure are the main hazards. Most parties take 2 days, so buy a Kananaskis Conservation Pass and get a Parks Canada wilderness pass to camp in Banff.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Rockfall
  • Loose rock
  • Glacier travel
  • Steep exposure
  • Technical climbing

Quests with Mount Sir Douglas

Peaks near Mount Sir Douglas

  1. Mount King George

    Mount King George

    11,191 ft · 9.2 mi away

  2. Mount Joffre

    Mount Joffre

    11,263 ft · 14.6 mi away

  3. Mount Assiniboine

    Mount Assiniboine

    11,870 ft · 17.0 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Sir Douglas?

Mount Sir Douglas is 11,191 feet (3,411 m) tall. It is in the Spray Mountains, Alberta/British Columbia.

How does Mount Sir Douglas rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,191 feet, Mount Sir Douglas is the 33rd highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount Sir Douglas?

The West Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 16 miles with 8,202 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Mount Sir Douglas?

Most climbers plan 2 days for the West Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Mount Sir Douglas dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need a rope to climb Mount Sir Douglas?

Most parties bring one. The West Ridge is Class 5, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.

When is the best time to climb Mount Sir Douglas?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Sir Douglas with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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