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- Mount Spickard
8,980 ft · Cascade Range, Washington
Mount Spickard
Mount Spickard is an 8,980 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the South Ridge: 21 mi, 6,700 ft of gain, Class 3.
Photo: NPS
Mount Spickard at a glance
- Elevation8,980 ft2,737 m
- RouteSouth RidgeClass 3
- Distance21 mi6,700 ft gain
- Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeCascade RangeWashington
Climbing the South Ridge
From Chilliwack, BC, drive Chilliwack Lake Road to unsigned Depot Creek Road and park at the gate. Old roads reach the border in 2 miles, then a rough path climbs Depot Creek past handlines at the falls to camp at Ouzel Lake. Head northeast toward the Silver Lake col, turn right up snow to an 8,000-ft notch on the South Ridge, and finish on open slopes and Class 3 gullies. Ice can linger on the snow. US law requires entering at a port of entry, which this walk-in skips. A North Cascades backcountry permit is required; get it at the Marblemount Wilderness Information Center.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Mountaineering Boots
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
Glacier Glasses
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Loose rock
- Route-finding difficulty
- Complex logistics
- Remote location
Quests with Mount Spickard
Washington 100 HighestFrequently asked questions
How tall is Mount Spickard?
Mount Spickard is 8,980 feet (2,737 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.
How hard is it to climb Mount Spickard?
The South Ridge is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 21 miles with 6,700 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Mount Spickard?
Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the South Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Mount Spickard dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, rockfall from loose rock and tricky route-finding. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Mount Spickard?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the South Ridge, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb Mount Spickard?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Mount Spickard with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list