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- North Guard
13,320 ft · Sierra Nevada, California
North Guard
North Guard is a 13,320 ft peak in the Sierra Nevada, California. The standard route is the South Face: 24 mi, 8,685 ft of gain, Class 4.
Photo: Will Keightley, CC BY-SA 3.0
North Guard at a glance
- Elevation13,320 ft4,059 m
- RouteSouth FaceClass 4
- Distance24 mi8,685 ft gain
- Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeSierra NevadaCalifornia
Climbing the South Face
From Fresno, drive CA 180 to Roads End beyond Cedar Grove. Follow the Bubbs Creek and Avalanche Pass trails to Sphinx Creek, then go cross-country past the Sphinx Lakes to Sphinx Col and contour into the cirque between North Guard and Mount Brewer. The South Face route climbs slabs and a sandy chute, then traverses ducked Class 3 ledges to the summit fin, a short Class 4 block leaning over the east face. Many parties rope up for it. It is easy to stray onto harder rock, so stay on the ducked line. Bear canisters are required. A Sequoia and Kings Canyon wilderness permit is required.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Belay Device
Carabiners
What to watch for
- Steep exposure
- Route-finding difficulty
- Loose rock
- Remote location
- Storms
Quests with North Guard
Sierra Peaks SectionPeaks near North Guard
Frequently asked questions
How tall is North Guard?
North Guard is 13,320 feet (4,059 m) tall. It is in the Sierra Nevada, California.
How hard is it to climb North Guard?
The South Face is Class 4, which means exposed scrambling, where many parties bring a rope. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 24 miles with 8,685 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb North Guard?
Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the South Face, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is North Guard dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious, rockfall from loose rock and fast-changing weather. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.
Do you need a rope to climb North Guard?
Most parties bring one. The South Face is Class 4, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb North Guard?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and North Guard reaches 13,320 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb North Guard?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb North Guard with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list