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- Primus Peak
8,511 ft · Cascade Range, Washington
Primus Peak
Primus Peak is an 8,511 ft peak in the Cascade Range, Washington. The standard route is the Borealis Glacier and East Ridge: 19 mi, 7,300 ft of gain, Class 3.
Photo: Martin Bravenboer, CC BY 2.0
Primus Peak at a glance
- Elevation8,511 ft2,594 m
- RouteBorealis Glacier and East RidgeClass 3
- Distance19 mi7,300 ft gain
- Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeCascade RangeWashington
Climbing the Borealis Glacier and East Ridge
From Colonial Creek Campground on SR 20, hike the Thunder Creek Trail about 6 mi to the old McAllister Camp area. The bridge is gone, so cross Thunder Creek on logs or by wading, then follow a faint, brushy climbers path up Lucky Ridge with a few Class 3 steps to camp near Borealis Lake. Rope up on the Borealis Glacier, climb to Lucky Pass, and scramble the Class 2 to 3 east ridge to the summit. Cross the creek early, before snowmelt raises it. Plan 2 to 3 days; the North Cascades backcountry permit for the Klawatti zone has a small quota.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Mountaineering Boots
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
Glacier Glasses
What to watch for
- Stream crossing
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Route-finding difficulty
- Remote location
Quests with Primus Peak
Washington 100 HighestFrequently asked questions
How tall is Primus Peak?
Primus Peak is 8,511 feet (2,594 m) tall. It is in the Cascade Range, Washington.
How hard is it to climb Primus Peak?
The Borealis Glacier and East Ridge is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 19 miles with 7,300 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Primus Peak?
Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the Borealis Glacier and East Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Primus Peak dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier and tricky route-finding. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Primus Peak?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Borealis Glacier and East Ridge, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb Primus Peak?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Primus Peak with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list