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- Thunderbolt Peak
14,000 ft · Sierra Nevada, California
Thunderbolt Peak
Thunderbolt Peak is a 14,000 ft peak in the Sierra Nevada, California. The standard route is the Southwest Chute #1: 17 mi, 4,595 ft of gain, Class 5.
Photo: Jonathan Fox, CC BY-SA 2.0
Thunderbolt Peak at a glance
- Elevation14,000 ft4,267 m
- RouteSouthwest Chute #1Class 5
- Distance17 mi4,595 ft gain
- Time16 – 18 hrsExtreme effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeSierra NevadaCalifornia
Climbing the Southwest Chute #1
From Bishop, drive Highway 168 and South Lake Road to the South Lake trailhead and hike the Bishop Pass Trail to the pass. Leave the trail and traverse talus below the west sides of Agassiz and Winchell to Thunderbolt Pass. Climb Southwest Chute #1, passing a chockstone on a ledge to the right; the chute can hold hard snow into July. A short class 4 pitch reaches the notch, and the summit block is a 15-foot 5.9 face that most parties top-rope after lassoing it. Bring a rope, slings, helmet, ice axe and crampons, and start before dawn, as lightning often hits the Palisade crest.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Belay Device
Carabiners
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Loose rock
- Rockfall
- Storms
Quests with Thunderbolt Peak
Sierra Peaks SectionPeaks near Thunderbolt Peak
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Thunderbolt Peak?
Thunderbolt Peak is 14,000 feet (4,267 m) tall. It is in the Sierra Nevada, California.
How hard is it to climb Thunderbolt Peak?
The Southwest Chute #1 is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 17 miles with 4,595 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Thunderbolt Peak?
Most people take 16 – 18 hours round trip on the Southwest Chute #1, covering 17 miles with 4,595 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.
Is Thunderbolt Peak dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious, rockfall from loose rock and fast-changing weather. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.
Do you need a rope to climb Thunderbolt Peak?
Most parties bring one. The Southwest Chute #1 is Class 5, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.
Will you get altitude sickness on Thunderbolt Peak?
You might. Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Thunderbolt Peak reaches 14,000 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
What time should you start climbing Thunderbolt Peak?
Early. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, so aim to be off the summit and the exposed upper mountain by early afternoon. At 16 – 18 hours round trip, many parties start in the dark.
When is the best time to climb Thunderbolt Peak?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Thunderbolt Peak with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list