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- Aiguille de Bionnassay
13,294 ft · Mont Blanc Group, France/Italy
Aiguille de Bionnassay
Aiguille de Bionnassay is a 13,294 ft peak in the Mont Blanc Group, France/Italy. The standard route is the Normal Route via NW Ridge: 10 mi, 6,560 ft of gain, AD.
Aiguille de Bionnassay at a glance
- Elevation13,294 ft4,052 m
- RouteNormal Route via NW RidgeAD
- Distance10 mi6,560 ft gain
- Time2–3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeMont Blanc GroupFrance/Italy
Climbing the Normal Route via NW Ridge
From Les Contamines, France, approach the Durier Hut, then climb the NW ridge (AD) to one of the most celebrated snow aretes in the Alps, a genuine knife-edge where the ridge narrows to little more than boot width with enormous drops either side. The exposure is exceptional and cornice conditions govern whether the route is sane on any given day, so gauge the snow carefully and short-rope the crest. It is often linked eastward to the Dome du Gouter and Mont Blanc. Watch rockfall on the mixed ground. Budget 2 to 3 days for the outing.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
Approach Shoes- Slings
- Nut Tool
- Cams / Nuts
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Knife-edge ridge
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Cornices
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- High altitude
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Altitude sickness
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Aiguille de Bionnassay
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Aiguille de Bionnassay
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Aiguille de Bionnassay?
Aiguille de Bionnassay is 13,294 feet (4,052 m) tall. It is in the Mont Blanc Group, France/Italy.
How does Aiguille de Bionnassay rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,294 feet, Aiguille de Bionnassay is the 64th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Aiguille de Bionnassay?
The Normal Route via NW Ridge is graded AD on the alpine scale, meaning fairly difficult: sustained snow, ice or rock that needs real climbing skills. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 10 miles with 6,560 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Aiguille de Bionnassay?
Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Normal Route via NW Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Aiguille de Bionnassay dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Aiguille de Bionnassay?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via NW Ridge for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Aiguille de Bionnassay?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Aiguille de Bionnassay reaches 13,294 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Aiguille de Bionnassay?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Aiguille de Bionnassay with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list