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- Pointe Médiane
13,442 ft · Mont Blanc Group, France
Pointe Médiane
Pointe Médiane is a 13,442 ft peak in the Mont Blanc Group, France. The standard route is the Arête du Diable: 7 mi, 3,937 ft of gain, TD.
Pointe Médiane at a glance
- Elevation13,442 ft4,097 m
- RouteArête du DiableTD
- Distance7 mi3,937 ft gain
- Time2 daysExtreme effort
- SeasonJul–Aug
- RangeMont Blanc GroupFrance
Climbing the Arête du Diable
From Chamonix, France, ride the Aiguille du Midi cable car and stay at the Cosmiques Hut, then climb the Arete du Diable (TD), taking Pointe Mediane, the central pinnacle and often cited as the most striking of the five. This is not an independent objective, just one of five granite pinnacles climbed in sequence with abseils between them. Retreat from the middle of the ridge is harder than continuing, so commit only in good weather. It is sustained TD rock climbing at altitude, committing and rarely quiet of weather. It shares one set of distance and gain figures with the other four pinnacles.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
Approach Shoes- Slings
- Nut Tool
- Cams / Nuts
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Knife-edge ridge
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Cornices
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- High altitude
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Altitude sickness
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Pointe Médiane
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Pointe Médiane
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Pointe Médiane?
Pointe Médiane is 13,442 feet (4,097 m) tall. It is in the Mont Blanc Group, France. It is also known as Aiguilles du Diable, Aiguilles du Diable (Pointe Médiane).
How does Pointe Médiane rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,442 feet, Pointe Médiane is the 54th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Pointe Médiane?
The Arête du Diable is graded TD on the alpine scale, meaning very difficult: long, sustained technical climbing. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 7 miles with 3,937 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Pointe Médiane?
Most climbers plan 2 days for the Arête du Diable, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Pointe Médiane dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Pointe Médiane?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Arête du Diable for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Pointe Médiane?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Pointe Médiane reaches 13,442 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Pointe Médiane?
The usual climbing window is July to August. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Pointe Médiane with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list