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- Aletschhorn
13,757 ft · Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Aletschhorn
Aletschhorn is a 13,757 ft peak in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via NW Flank: 18 mi, 7,890 ft of gain, AD-.
Aletschhorn at a glance
- Elevation13,757 ft4,193 m
- RouteNormal Route via NW FlankAD-
- Distance18 mi7,890 ft gain
- Time3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeBernese AlpsSwitzerland
Climbing the Normal Route via NW Flank
From Fafleralp in the Lotschental, Switzerland, make the long glacier approach to the Hollandiahutte above the Lotschenlucke, itself a full glacier day, which is why most parties budget three days for the second highest of the Bernese Alps. There is no quick way in. Summit day climbs sustained snow and mixed ground on the NW flank (AD-). The peak is isolated, lightly travelled, and serious in poor visibility, with crevasses and rockfall on the approach and flank, so navigation and firm conditions matter. This is among the most remote 4,000ers in the range.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
Approach Shoes- Slings
- Nut Tool
- Cams / Nuts
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Aletschhorn
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Aletschhorn
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Aletschhorn?
Aletschhorn is 13,757 feet (4,193 m) tall. It is in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland.
How does Aletschhorn rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,757 feet, Aletschhorn is the 34th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Aletschhorn?
The Normal Route via NW Flank is graded AD- on the alpine scale, meaning fairly difficult: sustained snow, ice or rock that needs real climbing skills. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 18 miles with 7,890 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Aletschhorn?
Most climbers plan 3 days for the Normal Route via NW Flank, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Aletschhorn dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Aletschhorn?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via NW Flank for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Aletschhorn?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Aletschhorn reaches 13,757 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Aletschhorn?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Aletschhorn with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list