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- Bishorn
13,625 ft · Wallis Alps, Switzerland
Bishorn
Bishorn is a 13,625 ft peak in the Wallis Alps, Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via Turtmann Glacier: 13 mi, 8,130 ft of gain, F.
Bishorn at a glance
- Elevation13,625 ft4,152 m
- RouteNormal Route via Turtmann GlacierF
- Distance13 mi8,130 ft gain
- Time2 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeWallis AlpsSwitzerland
Climbing the Normal Route via Turtmann Glacier
From Zinal, Switzerland, walk up 2,000 m to the Cabane de Tracuit carrying full glacier kit, then summit by the Turtmann Glacier (F). Widely called the easiest 4,000er reached on foot, and a classic first summit, it is grade F throughout on a broad glacier with no technical climbing. The work is all in the long approach, and roped travel is mandatory since the glacier is crevassed. It is the standard acclimatisation peak for parties heading onto the neighbouring Weisshorn. Watch cornices near the summit. Budget two days for the outing.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (25–35 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Heavyweight Gloves
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Cornices
- Steep exposure
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Bishorn
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Bishorn
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Bishorn?
Bishorn is 13,625 feet (4,152 m) tall. It is in the Wallis Alps, Switzerland.
How does Bishorn rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,625 feet, Bishorn is the 42nd highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Bishorn?
The Normal Route via Turtmann Glacier is graded F on the alpine scale, meaning easy: mostly walking, though glacier travel may still need a rope. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 13 miles with 8,130 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Bishorn?
Most climbers plan 2 days for the Normal Route via Turtmann Glacier, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Bishorn dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Bishorn?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via Turtmann Glacier for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Bishorn?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Bishorn reaches 13,625 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Bishorn?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Bishorn with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list