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- Gasherbrum I
26,509 ft · Karakoram, Pakistan Border
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I is a 26,509 ft peak in the Karakoram, Pakistan Border. The standard route is the Northwest Ridge: 15 mi, 10,100 ft of gain, Class 5.
Gasherbrum I at a glance
- Elevation26,509 ft8,079 m
- RouteNorthwest RidgeClass 5
- Distance15 mi10,100 ft gain
- Time6 – 8 wksExtreme effort
- SeasonJul – Aug
- RangeKarakoramPakistan Border
Climbing the Northwest Ridge
Fly to Skardu, Pakistan, then trek via the Baltoro Glacier to basecamp near Concordia (7-10 day approach). The standard route follows the Japanese Couloir on the northwest face. Full expedition logistics required with multiple high camps and fixed ropes. Extremely serious terrain with crevasses, seracs, and avalanche hazards throughout. Weather windows are brief, typically only a few days in July and August. Elite high-altitude experience and technical climbing skills essential. Pakistani permits and liaison officer mandatory. Often climbed in conjunction with Gasherbrum II due to shared basecamp location.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (65–85 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Expedition Mittens
Trekking Poles
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
Sleeping Bag (-40°F to -20°F)
Sleeping Pad
Oxygen System
Water
First Aid Kit
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Two-Way Radio
Emergency Bivy
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Down Suit
What to watch for
- Crevasses
- Avalanches
- Icefall
- Steep exposure
- Extreme cold
- High altitude
- Storms
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Serac fall
- Altitude sickness
- Technical climbing
- High winds
Quests with Gasherbrum I
Eight ThousandersPeaks near Gasherbrum I
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Gasherbrum I?
Gasherbrum I is 26,509 feet (8,079 m) tall. It is in the Karakoram, Pakistan Border.
How does Gasherbrum I rank among the Eight Thousanders?
At 26,509 feet, Gasherbrum I is the 11th highest of the 14 Eight Thousanders. The highest is Mount Everest.
How hard is it to climb Gasherbrum I?
The Northwest Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 15 miles with 10,100 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Gasherbrum I?
Gasherbrum I is an expedition: most climbers plan 6 – 8 weeks for the Northwest Ridge, much of it spent acclimatizing between camps.
Is Gasherbrum I dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need oxygen to climb Gasherbrum I?
Most climbers use it. Supplemental oxygen is on the gear list for the Northwest Ridge, and only a small number of very experienced climbers summit without it.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Gasherbrum I?
Yes. At 26,509 feet, Gasherbrum I is high enough for serious altitude illness. Climbers acclimatize over days or weeks, climbing high and sleeping low, and descend at the first signs of trouble.
When is the best time to climb Gasherbrum I?
The usual climbing window is July to August. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Where can I check avalanche conditions for Gasherbrum I?
Check the avalanche forecast at weather.gov.pk before any trip with snow on the route.
Can you hire a guide to climb Gasherbrum I?
Yes. Guide services that lead climbs of Gasherbrum I include Elite Exped and 8K Expeditions.
Climb Gasherbrum I with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list