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- Pointe Marguerite
13,337 ft · Mont Blanc Group, France/Italy
Pointe Marguerite
Pointe Marguerite is a 13,337 ft peak in the Mont Blanc Group, France/Italy. The standard route is the Grandes Jorasses Traverse: 13 mi, 8,600 ft of gain, D.
Pointe Marguerite at a glance
- Elevation13,337 ft4,065 m
- RouteGrandes Jorasses TraverseD
- Distance13 mi8,600 ft gain
- Time2–3 daysExtreme effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeMont Blanc GroupFrance/Italy
Climbing the Grandes Jorasses Traverse
From Planpincieux in the Val Ferret above Courmayeur, Italy, approach the Boccalatte Hut, then reach Pointe Marguerite, the westernmost 4,000 m point on the Grandes Jorasses ridge and the first reached on a west-to-east traverse (D). It is a subsidiary point with no independent normal route, reached only by traversing the crest, ground well above the difficulty of the normal route to Pointe Walker and effectively part of the full Jorasses traverse. Watch rockfall and cornices on the exposed crest. It shares its outing with the other Jorasses points; log distance and gain once.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
Approach Shoes- Slings
- Nut Tool
- Cams / Nuts
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Knife-edge ridge
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Cornices
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- High altitude
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Altitude sickness
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Pointe Marguerite
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Pointe Marguerite
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Pointe Marguerite?
Pointe Marguerite is 13,337 feet (4,065 m) tall. It is in the Mont Blanc Group, France/Italy. It is also known as Grandes Jorasses, Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Marguerite).
How does Pointe Marguerite rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,337 feet, Pointe Marguerite is the 60th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Pointe Marguerite?
The Grandes Jorasses Traverse is graded D on the alpine scale, meaning difficult: serious, sustained climbing on snow, ice or rock. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 13 miles with 8,600 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Pointe Marguerite?
Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Grandes Jorasses Traverse, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Pointe Marguerite dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Pointe Marguerite?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Grandes Jorasses Traverse for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Pointe Marguerite?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Pointe Marguerite reaches 13,337 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Pointe Marguerite?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Pointe Marguerite with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list