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- Kangchenjunga
28,169 ft · Himalayas, Nepal Border
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is a 28,169 ft peak in the Himalayas, Nepal Border. The standard route is the Yalung Face: 20 mi, 10,450 ft of gain, Class 5.
Kangchenjunga at a glance
- Elevation28,169 ft8,585 m
- RouteYalung FaceClass 5
- Distance20 mi10,450 ft gain
- Time7 – 9 wksExtreme effort
- SeasonApr – May
- RangeHimalayasNepal Border
Climbing the Yalung Face
Fly to Bhadrapur in eastern Nepal, then drive and trek through remote terrain to basecamp. The approach takes 2-3 weeks through beautiful but isolated country. The southwest face from Nepal is the standard route. Extremely serious expedition with avalanche, serac, and altitude hazards throughout. Full logistics and experienced high-altitude team required. Nepali permits are expensive. Weather windows are brief in spring (April-May). This is the third highest mountain on Earth and one of the most challenging 8000ers. By local tradition, climbers stop short of the true summit out of respect.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (65–85 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Expedition Mittens
Trekking Poles
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
Sleeping Bag (-40°F to -20°F)
Sleeping Pad
Oxygen System
Water
First-Aid Kit
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Two-Way Radio
Emergency Bivy
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Down Suit
What to watch for
- Avalanches
- Steep exposure
- Extreme cold
- High altitude
- Storms
- Remote location
- Isolation
- Technical climbing
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Serac fall
- Altitude sickness
- High winds
- Spotty cell reception
Quests with Kangchenjunga
Eight ThousandersFrequently asked questions
How tall is Kangchenjunga?
Kangchenjunga is 28,169 feet (8,585 m) tall. It is in the Himalayas, Nepal Border.
How does Kangchenjunga rank among the Eight Thousanders?
At 28,169 feet, Kangchenjunga is the 3rd highest of the 14 Eight Thousanders. The highest is Mount Everest.
How hard is it to climb Kangchenjunga?
The Yalung Face is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 20 miles with 10,450 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Kangchenjunga?
Kangchenjunga is an expedition: most climbers plan 7 – 9 weeks for the Yalung Face, much of it spent acclimatizing between camps.
Is Kangchenjunga dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need oxygen to climb Kangchenjunga?
Most climbers use it. Supplemental oxygen is on the gear list for the Yalung Face, and only a small number of very experienced climbers summit without it.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Kangchenjunga?
Yes. At 28,169 feet, Kangchenjunga is high enough for serious altitude illness. Climbers acclimatize over days or weeks, climbing high and sleeping low, and descend at the first signs of trouble.
When is the best time to climb Kangchenjunga?
The usual climbing window is April to May. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Where can I check avalanche conditions for Kangchenjunga?
Check the avalanche forecast at dhm.gov.np before any trip with snow on the route.
Can you hire a guide to climb Kangchenjunga?
Yes. Guide services that lead climbs of Kangchenjunga include Furtenbach Adventures and Seven Summit Treks.
Climb Kangchenjunga with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list