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13,112 ft · San Juan Mountains, Colorado

Lizard Head

Lizard Head is a 13,112 ft peak in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado. The standard route is the Lizard Head SW Chimney 5.8: 9 mi, 3,065 ft of gain, Class 5.

Lizard Head in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado

Lizard Head at a glance

  • Elevation13,112 ft3,996 m
  • RouteLizard Head SW Chimney 5.8Class 5
  • Distance9 mi3,065 ft gain
  • Time9 – 11 hrsVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeSan Juan MountainsColorado

Climbing the Lizard Head SW Chimney 5.8

Lizard Head sits in the San Juan Mountains. The usual ascent is Lizard Head SW Chimney 5.8, rated Class 5. Plan about 9 miles round-trip with roughly 3,065 ft of gain from about 10,050 ft. The trailhead is typically reachable by passenger car. Summer monsoon storms build fast, so start early and be off the summit by early afternoon. Watch for loose rock, route-finding on talus, and brief exposed steps where the terrain steepens. Stats and approach details follow climb13ers.com. Bring a helmet; rope may be prudent for less experienced parties on the crux.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (30–40 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Storms
  • High altitude
  • Loose rock
  • Steep exposure
  • Route-finding difficulty

Quests with Lizard Head

Peaks near Lizard Head

  1. Gladstone Peak

    Gladstone Peak

    13,923 ft · 1.9 mi away

  2. Mount Wilson

    Mount Wilson

    14,252 ft · 2.2 mi away

  3. Wilson Peak

    Wilson Peak

    14,017 ft · 2.5 mi away

  4. El Diente Peak

    El Diente Peak

    14,159 ft · 3.0 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Lizard Head?

Lizard Head is 13,112 feet (3,996 m) tall. It is in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado.

How does Lizard Head rank among the Colorado 13ers?

At 13,112 feet, Lizard Head is the 504th highest of the 582 Colorado 13ers. The highest is Grizzly Peak.

How hard is it to climb Lizard Head?

The Lizard Head SW Chimney 5.8 is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 9 miles with 3,065 feet of elevation gain.

How long does it take to climb Lizard Head?

Most people take 9 – 11 hours round trip on the Lizard Head SW Chimney 5.8, covering 9 miles with 3,065 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.

Is Lizard Head dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious, rockfall from loose rock and fast-changing weather. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.

Do you need a rope to climb Lizard Head?

Most parties bring one. The Lizard Head SW Chimney 5.8 is Class 5, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.

Will you get altitude sickness on Lizard Head?

You might. Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Lizard Head reaches 13,112 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.

What time should you start climbing Lizard Head?

Early. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, so aim to be off the summit and the exposed upper mountain by early afternoon. At 9 – 11 hours round trip, many parties start in the dark.

When is the best time to climb Lizard Head?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Lizard Head with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list