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- Middle Teton
12,803 ft · Teton Range, Wyoming
Middle Teton
Middle Teton is a 12,803 ft peak in the Teton Range, Wyoming. The standard route is the Southwest Couloir: 13 mi, 6,000 ft of gain, Class 3.
Middle Teton at a glance
- Elevation12,803 ft3,902 m
- RouteSouthwest CouloirClass 3
- Distance13 mi6,000 ft gain
- Time12 – 14 hrsVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeTeton RangeWyoming
Climbing the Southwest Couloir
From Jackson, take US 191 north to Moose and the Teton Park Road to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead. Hike the Garnet Canyon trail to the Meadows, then follow the South Fork up boulders and talus to the saddle between Middle and South Teton. The Southwest Couloir is a loose Class 3 scramble that narrows near the top, then a short exposed ridge leads to the summit; careful route-finding keeps it from feeling like Class 4. Helmets are essential for rockfall, and early season snow calls for an ice axe and crampons. Start before dawn to beat afternoon storms. A Grand Teton entrance pass is required.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (35–55 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Helmet
What to watch for
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Route-finding difficulty
- Storms
Quests with Middle Teton
Teton 11,000ersPeaks near Middle Teton
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Middle Teton?
Middle Teton is 12,803 feet (3,902 m) tall. It is in the Teton Range, Wyoming.
How does Middle Teton rank among the Teton 11,000ers?
At 12,803 feet, Middle Teton is the 3rd highest of the 28 Teton 11,000ers. The highest is Grand Teton.
How hard is it to climb Middle Teton?
The Southwest Couloir is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 13 miles with 6,000 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Middle Teton?
Most people take 12 – 14 hours round trip on the Southwest Couloir, covering 13 miles with 6,000 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.
Is Middle Teton dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: rockfall from loose rock, fast-changing weather and tricky route-finding. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.
Do you need a helmet for Middle Teton?
It is a good idea. Loose rock and rockfall are common on the Southwest Couloir, so a helmet is on the gear list.
Will you get altitude sickness on Middle Teton?
You might. Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Middle Teton reaches 12,803 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
What time should you start climbing Middle Teton?
Early. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, so aim to be off the summit and the exposed upper mountain by early afternoon. At 12 – 14 hours round trip, many parties start in the dark.
When is the best time to climb Middle Teton?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
What is the trailhead elevation for Middle Teton?
The Southwest Couloir starts at about 6,740 feet, roughly 6,063 feet below the summit.
Climb Middle Teton with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list