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11,453 ft · Canadian Rockies, Alberta

Mount Athabasca

Mount Athabasca is an 11,453 ft peak in the Canadian Rockies, Alberta. The standard route is the North Glacier: 8 mi, 4,921 ft of gain, Class 3.

Mount Athabasca in the Canadian Rockies, Alberta

Mount Athabasca at a glance

  • Elevation11,453 ft3,490 m
  • RouteNorth GlacierClass 3
  • Distance8 mi4,921 ft gain
  • Time9 – 12 hrsHard effort
  • SeasonJun – Sep
  • RangeCanadian RockiesAlberta

Climbing the North Glacier

From Jasper, drive 103 km south on Highway 93 (Icefields Parkway) and park at the Snocoach Road gate across from the Icefield Centre. Walk about 2 km up the road to the moraine, then climb the North Glacier route (Grade II, class 3 glacier travel), traversing above a calving ice cliff and up snow slopes past the Silverhorn to the summit ridge. Crevasses, serac fall and avalanches are the main hazards, so bring a rope, crampons and crevasse rescue gear. Start before dawn for firm snow; most parties take 9 to 12 hours. A Parks Canada pass is required, and bivouacs are not allowed on any Athabasca route.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (35–55 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet

What to watch for

  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Serac fall
  • Avalanches

Quests with Mount Athabasca

Peaks near Mount Athabasca

  1. Mount Andromeda

    Mount Andromeda

    11,319 ft · 1.4 mi away

  2. Snow Dome

    Snow Dome

    11,339 ft · 4.7 mi away

  3. Mount Kitchener

    Mount Kitchener

    11,499 ft · 5.5 mi away

  4. Stutfield East

    Stutfield East

    11,227 ft · 9.1 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Athabasca?

Mount Athabasca is 11,453 feet (3,490 m) tall. It is in the Canadian Rockies, Alberta.

How does Mount Athabasca rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,453 feet, Mount Athabasca is the 17th highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount Athabasca?

The North Glacier is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort hard: 8 miles with 4,921 feet of elevation gain.

How long does it take to climb Mount Athabasca?

Most people take 9 – 12 hours round trip on the North Glacier, covering 8 miles with 4,921 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.

Is Mount Athabasca dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger and crevasses on the glacier. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need a helmet for Mount Athabasca?

It is a good idea. The scrambling has rock overhead on the North Glacier, so a helmet is on the gear list.

When is the best time to climb Mount Athabasca?

The usual climbing window is June to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Athabasca with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list