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11,499 ft · Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

Mount Kitchener

Mount Kitchener is an 11,499 ft peak in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta. The standard route is the Southwest Slopes: 17 mi, 5,085 ft of gain, Class 3.

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Mount Kitchener in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

Mount Kitchener at a glance

  • Elevation11,499 ft3,504 m
  • RouteSouthwest SlopesClass 3
  • Distance17 mi5,085 ft gain
  • Time14 – 16 hrsVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeWinston Churchill RangeAlberta

Climbing the Southwest Slopes

From Jasper, drive 103 km south on Highway 93 (Icefields Parkway) and park at the end of Toe of the Glacier Road, across from the Icefield Centre. Climb the Athabasca Glacier icefalls onto the Columbia Icefield, pass south and west of Snow Dome to the Snow Dome-Kitchener col, then follow the gentle southwest slopes (Grade I, class 3) about 3 km to the top. Crevasses, icefall and large cornices on the summit ridge are the main hazards, so stay well back from the edge. It is usually skied in spring; fast parties finish in under 14 hours. A Parks Canada pass is required, plus a Parks Canada wilderness pass if you camp on the icefield.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet

What to watch for

  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Icefall
  • Cornices

Quests with Mount Kitchener

Peaks near Mount Kitchener

  1. Snow Dome

    Snow Dome

    11,339 ft · 2.1 mi away

  2. Stutfield East

    Stutfield East

    11,227 ft · 3.7 mi away

  3. Stutfield Peak

    Stutfield Peak

    11,348 ft · 3.9 mi away

  4. Mount Andromeda

    Mount Andromeda

    11,319 ft · 4.7 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Kitchener?

Mount Kitchener is 11,499 feet (3,504 m) tall. It is in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta.

How does Mount Kitchener rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,499 feet, Mount Kitchener is the 14th highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount Kitchener?

The Southwest Slopes is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 17 miles with 5,085 feet of elevation gain.

How long does it take to climb Mount Kitchener?

Most people take 14 – 16 hours round trip on the Southwest Slopes, covering 17 miles with 5,085 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.

Is Mount Kitchener dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger and crevasses on the glacier. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need an ice axe for Mount Kitchener?

Plan on it. An ice axe is on the gear list for the Southwest Slopes for the snow and ice on the upper mountain. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

When is the best time to climb Mount Kitchener?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Kitchener with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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