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11,850 ft · Park Ranges, Alberta

Mount Forbes

Mount Forbes is an 11,850 ft peak in the Park Ranges, Alberta. The standard route is the West Ridge: 37 mi, 13,330 ft of gain, Class 5.

Mount Forbes in the Park Ranges, Alberta

Mount Forbes at a glance

  • Elevation11,850 ft3,611 m
  • RouteWest RidgeClass 5
  • Distance37 mi13,330 ft gain
  • Time3 daysExtreme effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangePark RangesAlberta

Climbing the West Ridge

From Lake Louise, drive Hwy 1 and Hwy 93 north to the Glacier Lake trailhead just past Saskatchewan Crossing. Hike past Glacier Lake, up the Glacier River, ford it, and climb the headwall to a bivy below Mons Glacier. The West Ridge (class 5, grade III, AD-) crosses the north glacier, climbs a 40 to 50 degree northwest face, then follows the ridge with low fifth class steps and a rappel. Expect crevasses and a cold river ford. Display a Parks Canada pass, and carry a Parks Canada wilderness pass (backcountry permit) for the random bivy, booked in person or by phone.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Stream crossing
  • Technical climbing
  • Remote location

Quests with Mount Forbes

Peaks near Mount Forbes

  1. Christian Peak

    Christian Peak

    11,148 ft · 9.2 mi away

  2. Walter Peak

    Walter Peak

    11,158 ft · 9.7 mi away

  3. Mount Lyell

    Mount Lyell

    11,476 ft · 9.9 mi away

  4. Mount Cline

    Mount Cline

    11,027 ft · 18.0 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Forbes?

Mount Forbes is 11,850 feet (3,611 m) tall. It is in the Park Ranges, Alberta.

How does Mount Forbes rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,850 feet, Mount Forbes is the 8th highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount Forbes?

The West Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 37 miles with 13,330 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Mount Forbes?

Most climbers plan 3 days for the West Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Mount Forbes dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need a rope to climb Mount Forbes?

Most parties bring one. The West Ridge is Class 5, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.

When is the best time to climb Mount Forbes?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Forbes with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list