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11,476 ft · Park Ranges, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount Lyell

Mount Lyell is an 11,476 ft peak in the Park Ranges, Alberta/British Columbia. The standard route is the Northeast Slope: 23 mi, 10,991 ft of gain, Class 3.

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Mount Lyell in the Park Ranges, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount Lyell at a glance

  • Elevation11,476 ft3,497 m
  • RouteNortheast SlopeClass 3
  • Distance23 mi10,991 ft gain
  • Time3 – 4 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangePark RangesAlberta/British Columbia

Climbing the Northeast Slope

From Golden, take Hwy 1 west to Donald, then the Bush River and Valenciennes forest roads to the Icefall Brook trailhead (high-clearance 4WD; washouts may add a long bike). A 12 km highline route climbs about 2,000 m to the Lyell Hut. Ernest (Lyell 3), the highest Lyell, goes by its northeast snow slope (class 3, Alpine II), usually in one circuit with Edward and Rudolph. Expect glacier travel, crevasses, a bergschrund, and serac fall risk far from help. Rope up with crevasse rescue gear. Book a Lyell Hut reservation with Icefall Lodge.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet

What to watch for

  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Serac fall
  • Remote location
  • Complex logistics

Quests with Mount Lyell

Peaks near Mount Lyell

  1. Walter Peak

    Walter Peak

    11,158 ft · 0.3 mi away

  2. Christian Peak

    Christian Peak

    11,148 ft · 0.9 mi away

  3. Mount Forbes

    Mount Forbes

    11,850 ft · 9.9 mi away

  4. Mount Bryce

    Mount Bryce

    11,506 ft · 11.3 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Lyell?

Mount Lyell is 11,476 feet (3,497 m) tall. It is in the Park Ranges, Alberta/British Columbia. It is also known as Ernest Peak, Lyell 3.

How does Mount Lyell rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,476 feet, Mount Lyell is the 15th highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount Lyell?

The Northeast Slope is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 23 miles with 10,991 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Mount Lyell?

Most climbers plan 3 – 4 days for the Northeast Slope, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Mount Lyell dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger and crevasses on the glacier. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need a helmet for Mount Lyell?

It is a good idea. The scrambling has rock overhead on the Northeast Slope, so a helmet is on the gear list.

When is the best time to climb Mount Lyell?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Lyell with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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