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11,348 ft · Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

Stutfield Peak

Stutfield Peak is an 11,348 ft peak in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta. The standard route is the Normal Route via Twins-Stutfield Col: 28 mi, 8,202 ft of gain, Class 3.

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Stutfield Peak in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

Stutfield Peak at a glance

  • Elevation11,348 ft3,458 m
  • RouteNormal Route via Twins-Stutfield ColClass 3
  • Distance28 mi8,202 ft gain
  • Time3 – 4 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeWinston Churchill RangeAlberta

Climbing the Normal Route via Twins-Stutfield Col

From Jasper or Lake Louise, take the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) to the Toe of the Glacier lot by the Columbia Icefield Centre. Ski the Athabasca Glacier past its icefalls and Snow Dome seracs to camp near the Twins-Stutfield col. From the col, climb the slope between two rock bands (about 300 m, crossing a possible bergschrund), then a gentle snow dome to the top (Class 3 glacier ascent). Expect wind-scoured ice near the summit and hidden crevasses. Stutfield East and Mount Cromwell are reached over it. Plan 3-4 days in April-May. A Parks Canada pass and a Parks Canada wilderness pass (Icefields random camping, by phone) are required.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet

What to watch for

  • Crevasses
  • High winds
  • Icy summit conditions
  • Serac fall
  • Remote location

Quests with Stutfield Peak

Peaks near Stutfield Peak

  1. Stutfield East

    Stutfield East

    11,227 ft · 1.3 mi away

  2. North Twin

    North Twin

    12,087 ft · 1.5 mi away

  3. Twins Tower

    Twins Tower

    11,900 ft · 1.9 mi away

  4. South Twin

    South Twin

    11,699 ft · 2.7 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Stutfield Peak?

Stutfield Peak is 11,348 feet (3,458 m) tall. It is in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta.

How does Stutfield Peak rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,348 feet, Stutfield Peak is the 21st highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Stutfield Peak?

The Normal Route via Twins-Stutfield Col is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 28 miles with 8,202 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Stutfield Peak?

Most climbers plan 3 – 4 days for the Normal Route via Twins-Stutfield Col, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Stutfield Peak dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and fast-changing weather. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need an ice axe for Stutfield Peak?

Plan on it. An ice axe is on the gear list for the Normal Route via Twins-Stutfield Col. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

When is the best time to climb Stutfield Peak?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Stutfield Peak with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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