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11,365 ft · Bow Range, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount Victoria

Mount Victoria is an 11,365 ft peak in the Bow Range, Alberta/British Columbia. The standard route is the Southeast Ridge: 8 mi, 4,725 ft of gain, Class 5.

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Mount Victoria in the Bow Range, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount Victoria at a glance

  • Elevation11,365 ft3,464 m
  • RouteSoutheast RidgeClass 5
  • Distance8 mi4,725 ft gain
  • Time10 – 12 hrsVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeBow RangeAlberta/British Columbia

Climbing the Southeast Ridge

From Lake Louise, drive west on Highway 1 to the Lake O'Hara parking lot and take the bus 11 km to Lake O'Hara (or walk the road before the first 8:30 am bus). Hike to Lake Oesa, then follow the steep, loose Abbot Pass alpine route to the pass where the old hut stood. The Southeast Ridge (II, low 5th around 5.2) climbs choss to an airy, knife-edge crest and the snowy Sickle before the south summit. Expect rockfall on the pass approach and exposure most of the ridge; carry crampons and an axe. Huber is often added via the Huber glacier. A Lake O'Hara bus reservation and a Parks Canada pass are required.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (35–55 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Knife-edge ridge
  • Steep exposure
  • Rockfall
  • Loose rock

Quests with Mount Victoria

Peaks near Mount Victoria

  1. Mount Huber

    Mount Huber

    10,984 ft · 0.5 mi away

  2. Mount Victoria North Peak

    Mount Victoria North Peak

    11,207 ft · 0.6 mi away

  3. Mount Lefroy

    Mount Lefroy

    11,230 ft · 1.6 mi away

  4. Hungabee Mountain

    Hungabee Mountain

    11,457 ft · 3.2 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Victoria?

Mount Victoria is 11,365 feet (3,464 m) tall. It is in the Bow Range, Alberta/British Columbia. It is also known as Mount Victoria South Peak.

How does Mount Victoria rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,365 feet, Mount Victoria is the 20th highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount Victoria?

The Southeast Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 8 miles with 4,725 feet of elevation gain.

How long does it take to climb Mount Victoria?

Most people take 10 – 12 hours round trip on the Southeast Ridge, covering 8 miles with 4,725 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.

Is Mount Victoria dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.

Do you need a rope to climb Mount Victoria?

Most parties bring one. The Southeast Ridge is Class 5, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.

When is the best time to climb Mount Victoria?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

What is the trailhead elevation for Mount Victoria?

The Southeast Ridge starts at about 6,620 feet, roughly 4,745 feet below the summit.

Climb Mount Victoria with Yak

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