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- Mount Victoria North Peak
11,207 ft · Bow Range, Alberta/British Columbia
Mount Victoria North Peak
Mount Victoria North Peak is an 11,207 ft peak in the Bow Range, Alberta/British Columbia. The standard route is the Northeast Ridge: 10 mi, 5,469 ft of gain, Class 5.
Mount Victoria North Peak at a glance
- Elevation11,207 ft3,415 m
- RouteNortheast RidgeClass 5
- Distance10 mi5,469 ft gain
- Time12 – 14 hrsVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeBow RangeAlberta/British Columbia
Climbing the Northeast Ridge
From Lake Louise, drive to the Lake Louise Lakeshore parking lot and hike the Plain of Six Glaciers trail to the teahouse. Gain the badly crevassed Upper Victoria Glacier, cross the bergschrund, and climb snow or rock through the black band to the Victoria-Collier col. The Northeast Ridge (Alpine II) has a 5.3 rock step or a 45 to 50 degree snow bypass, then a snow ridge to the summit. Rockfall sweeps the bench above the lower glacier. Rope up, carry an ice tool and a rope for rappels in the black band, and start before 3 am. Lake Louise Lakeshore paid parking and a Parks Canada pass are required.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (35–55 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Belay Device
Carabiners
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Steep exposure
- Ice near summit
Quests with Mount Victoria North Peak
Canadian Rockies 11,000ersPeaks near Mount Victoria North Peak
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Mount Victoria North Peak?
Mount Victoria North Peak is 11,207 feet (3,415 m) tall. It is in the Bow Range, Alberta/British Columbia. It is also known as North Victoria.
How does Mount Victoria North Peak rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?
At 11,207 feet, Mount Victoria North Peak is the 32nd highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.
How hard is it to climb Mount Victoria North Peak?
The Northeast Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 10 miles with 5,469 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Mount Victoria North Peak?
Most people take 12 – 14 hours round trip on the Northeast Ridge, covering 10 miles with 5,469 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.
Is Mount Victoria North Peak dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need an ice axe for Mount Victoria North Peak?
Plan on it. An ice axe is on the gear list for the Northeast Ridge for the snow and ice on the upper mountain. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb Mount Victoria North Peak?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Mount Victoria North Peak with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list