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- Nanga Parbat
26,660 ft · Karakoram, Pakistan
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat is a 26,660 ft peak in the Karakoram, Pakistan. The standard route is the Diamir Face: 19 mi, 12,881 ft of gain, Class 5.
Nanga Parbat at a glance
- Elevation26,660 ft8,125 m
- RouteDiamir FaceClass 5
- Distance19 mi12,881 ft gain
- Time7 – 9 wksExtreme effort
- SeasonJun – Jul
- RangeKarakoramPakistan
Climbing the Diamir Face
Fly to Islamabad, Pakistan, then drive to Chilas and trek to basecamp. The Rupal Face (south) and Diamir Face (west) are the standard routes, both extremely serious undertakings. Known as "Killer Mountain" due to its high fatality rate, this peak has claimed many lives to avalanches, rockfall, and icefall. Full expedition logistics with multiple high camps required. Weather windows are brief in the June-July climbing season. One of the most dangerous 8000-meter peaks. Pakistani permits and liaison officer mandatory. Only for elite teams with extensive high-altitude experience and serious risk tolerance.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (65–85 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Expedition Mittens
Trekking Poles
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
Sleeping Bag (-40°F to -20°F)
Sleeping Pad
Oxygen System
Water
First-Aid Kit
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Two-Way Radio
Emergency Bivy
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Down Suit
What to watch for
- Rockfall
- Icefall
- Avalanches
- Steep exposure
- Extreme cold
- High altitude
- Storms
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Altitude sickness
- Technical climbing
- High winds
Quests with Nanga Parbat
Eight ThousandersFrequently asked questions
How tall is Nanga Parbat?
Nanga Parbat is 26,660 feet (8,125 m) tall. It is in the Karakoram, Pakistan.
How does Nanga Parbat rank among the Eight Thousanders?
At 26,660 feet, Nanga Parbat is the 9th highest of the 14 Eight Thousanders. The highest is Mount Everest.
How hard is it to climb Nanga Parbat?
The Diamir Face is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 19 miles with 12,881 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Nanga Parbat?
Nanga Parbat is an expedition: most climbers plan 7 – 9 weeks for the Diamir Face, much of it spent acclimatizing between camps.
Is Nanga Parbat dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need oxygen to climb Nanga Parbat?
Most climbers use it. Supplemental oxygen is on the gear list for the Diamir Face, and only a small number of very experienced climbers summit without it.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Nanga Parbat?
Yes. At 26,660 feet, Nanga Parbat is high enough for serious altitude illness. Climbers acclimatize over days or weeks, climbing high and sleeping low, and descend at the first signs of trouble.
When is the best time to climb Nanga Parbat?
The usual climbing window is June to July. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Where can I check avalanche conditions for Nanga Parbat?
Check the avalanche forecast at weather.gov.pk before any trip with snow on the route.
Can you hire a guide to climb Nanga Parbat?
Yes. Guide services that lead climbs of Nanga Parbat include 8K Expeditions and Elite Exped.
Climb Nanga Parbat with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list