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- North Eolus
14,039 ft · San Juan Mountains, Colorado
North Eolus
North Eolus is a 14,039 ft peak in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado. The standard route is the South Ridge: 17 mi, 6,000 ft of gain, Class 3.
North Eolus at a glance
- Elevation14,039 ft4,279 m
- RouteSouth RidgeClass 3
- Distance17 mi6,000 ft gain
- Time11 – 13 hrsVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeSan Juan MountainsColorado
Climbing the South Ridge
Take the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to Needleton, then backpack 6 miles to Chicago Basin. North Eolus is typically climbed as an addition after summiting nearby Mount Eolus. Short but airy knife edges connect the two peaks with Class 3 exposure. The traverse can be intimidating for those uncomfortable with heights. Early start essential as weather moves quickly at this elevation. Plan for 2-3 days minimum in the spectacular Chicago Basin. Train reservations fill up weeks in advance in summer. One of Colorado's most dramatic settings.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (25–35 L)
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Hiking Boots
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Sun Hat
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
Helmet
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
What to watch for
- Steep exposure
- Loose rock
- Storms
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- Knife-edge ridge
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- High winds
- Remote location
North Eolus on Yak
Climbers have shared 6 climbs of North Eolus on Yak. Read their trip reports and recent conditions in the app
Quests with North Eolus
Colorado 14ers
Lower 48 14ersPeaks near North Eolus
Frequently asked questions
How tall is North Eolus?
North Eolus is 14,039 feet (4,279 m) tall. It is in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado.
How does North Eolus rank among the Colorado 14ers?
At 14,039 feet, North Eolus is the 46th highest of the 58 Colorado 14ers. The highest is Mount Elbert.
How hard is it to climb North Eolus?
The South Ridge is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 17 miles with 6,000 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb North Eolus?
Most people take 11 – 13 hours round trip on the South Ridge, covering 17 miles with 6,000 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.
Is North Eolus dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious, rockfall from loose rock and fast-changing weather. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.
Do you need a helmet for North Eolus?
It is a good idea. Loose rock and rockfall are common on the South Ridge, so a helmet is on the gear list.
Will you get altitude sickness on North Eolus?
You might. Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and North Eolus reaches 14,039 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
What time should you start climbing North Eolus?
Early. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, so aim to be off the summit and the exposed upper mountain by early afternoon. At 11 – 13 hours round trip, many parties start in the dark.
When is the best time to climb North Eolus?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
What is the trailhead elevation for North Eolus?
The South Ridge starts at about 11,010 feet, roughly 3,029 feet below the summit.
Climb North Eolus with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list