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- Mount Eolus
14,090 ft · San Juan Mountains, Colorado
Mount Eolus
Mount Eolus is a 14,090 ft peak in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado. The standard route is the Northeast Ridge: 6 mi, 3,100 ft of gain, Class 3.
Mount Eolus at a glance
- Elevation14,090 ft4,294 m
- RouteNortheast RidgeClass 3
- Distance6 mi3,100 ft gain
- Time11 – 13 hrsVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeSan Juan MountainsColorado
Climbing the Northeast Ridge
Take the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to Needleton, then backpack 6 miles to Chicago Basin. This is one of Colorado's most spectacular and remote 14er settings. The standard route involves an airy catwalk with Class 3 exposure. Route-finding matters on the ledges and through the gullies. Often combined with Windom and Sunlight peaks for ambitious parties. Plan for 2-3 days minimum in the basin. Train reservations are essential in summer and fill up weeks in advance. Spectacular wildflowers in July. Weather moves fast at this elevation.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (30–40 L)
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Hiking Boots
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Sun Hat
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
Helmet
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
What to watch for
- Steep exposure
- Loose rock
- Storms
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- Low visibility
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- High winds
- Knife-edge ridge
- Remote location
Mount Eolus on Yak
Climbers have shared 6 climbs of Mount Eolus on Yak. Read their trip reports and recent conditions in the app
Quests with Mount Eolus
Colorado 14ers
Lower 48 14ers
Colorado CentennialsPeaks near Mount Eolus
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Mount Eolus?
Mount Eolus is 14,090 feet (4,294 m) tall. It is in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado.
How does Mount Eolus rank among the Colorado 14ers?
At 14,090 feet, Mount Eolus is the 35th highest of the 58 Colorado 14ers. The highest is Mount Elbert.
How hard is it to climb Mount Eolus?
The Northeast Ridge is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 6 miles with 3,100 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Mount Eolus?
Most people take 11 – 13 hours round trip on the Northeast Ridge, covering 6 miles with 3,100 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.
Is Mount Eolus dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: exposed sections where a fall would be serious, rockfall from loose rock and fast-changing weather. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.
Do you need a helmet for Mount Eolus?
It is a good idea. Loose rock and rockfall are common on the Northeast Ridge, so a helmet is on the gear list.
Will you get altitude sickness on Mount Eolus?
You might. Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Mount Eolus reaches 14,090 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
What time should you start climbing Mount Eolus?
Early. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, so aim to be off the summit and the exposed upper mountain by early afternoon. At 11 – 13 hours round trip, many parties start in the dark.
When is the best time to climb Mount Eolus?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
What is the trailhead elevation for Mount Eolus?
The Northeast Ridge starts at about 11,010 feet, roughly 3,080 feet below the summit.
Climb Mount Eolus with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list