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- Weissmies
13,179 ft · Wallis Alps, Switzerland
Weissmies
Weissmies is a 13,179 ft peak in the Wallis Alps, Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via NW Flank: 8 mi, 3,937 ft of gain, PD.
Weissmies at a glance
- Elevation13,179 ft4,016 m
- RouteNormal Route via NW FlankPD
- Distance8 mi3,937 ft gain
- Time2 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeWallis AlpsSwitzerland
Climbing the Normal Route via NW Flank
From Saas-Grund, Switzerland, ride the Hohsaas lift and approach the Weissmieshutte, then climb the NW flank (PD) on a popular and rewarding glacier summit. The glacier is spectacular but seriously crevassed and broken, with large seracs, so the route weaves through genuine hazard even though the climbing is not technical. Rope up, keep spacing tight, and move early past the serac fall. It is a well-loved first or second 4,000er, but not one to treat casually. Watch cornices near the top. Budget two days for the outing.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Cornices
- Steep exposure
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
- Serac fall
Quests with Weissmies
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Weissmies
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Weissmies?
Weissmies is 13,179 feet (4,016 m) tall. It is in the Wallis Alps, Switzerland.
How does Weissmies rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,179 feet, Weissmies is the 75th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Weissmies?
The Normal Route via NW Flank is graded PD on the alpine scale, meaning slightly difficult: some scrambling, steeper snow or simple glacier travel. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 8 miles with 3,937 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Weissmies?
Most climbers plan 2 days for the Normal Route via NW Flank, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Weissmies dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Weissmies?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via NW Flank for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Weissmies?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Weissmies reaches 13,179 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Weissmies?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Weissmies with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list