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- Annapurna I
26,545 ft · Himalayas, Nepal
Annapurna I
Annapurna I is a 26,545 ft peak in the Himalayas, Nepal. The standard route is the North Face: 15 mi, 12,798 ft of gain, Class 5.
Annapurna I at a glance
- Elevation26,545 ft8,090 m
- RouteNorth FaceClass 5
- Distance15 mi12,798 ft gain
- Time6 – 7 wksExtreme effort
- SeasonApr – May
- RangeHimalayasNepal
Climbing the North Face
Fly to Pokhara, Nepal, then drive or trek to basecamp via the Annapurna Sanctuary approach through Modi Khola valley. This is one of the deadliest 8000-meter peaks with a high fatality rate due to avalanches, seracs, and unstable snowpack. The standard route via the north face requires full expedition logistics with multiple high camps and fixed ropes. Weather windows are extremely short and unpredictable. Permits from Nepal are expensive and require experienced team. Strong risk tolerance and previous 8000m experience essential. Spring season (April-May) offers the most stable conditions.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–50 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Expedition Mittens
Trekking Poles
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
Sleeping Bag (-40°F to -20°F)
Sleeping Pad
Oxygen System
Water
First-Aid Kit
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Two-Way Radio
Emergency Bivy
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Down Suit
What to watch for
- Avalanches
- Steep exposure
- Technical climbing
- High altitude
- Storms
- Extreme cold
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Serac fall
- Altitude sickness
- High winds
- Icefall
- Rockfall
Quests with Annapurna I
Eight ThousandersPeaks near Annapurna I
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Annapurna I?
Annapurna I is 26,545 feet (8,090 m) tall. It is in the Himalayas, Nepal.
How does Annapurna I rank among the Eight Thousanders?
At 26,545 feet, Annapurna I is the 10th highest of the 14 Eight Thousanders. The highest is Mount Everest.
How hard is it to climb Annapurna I?
The North Face is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 15 miles with 12,798 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Annapurna I?
Annapurna I is an expedition: most climbers plan 6 – 7 weeks for the North Face, much of it spent acclimatizing between camps.
Is Annapurna I dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need oxygen to climb Annapurna I?
Most climbers use it. Supplemental oxygen is on the gear list for the North Face, and only a small number of very experienced climbers summit without it.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Annapurna I?
Yes. At 26,545 feet, Annapurna I is high enough for serious altitude illness. Climbers acclimatize over days or weeks, climbing high and sleeping low, and descend at the first signs of trouble.
When is the best time to climb Annapurna I?
The usual climbing window is April to May. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Where can I check avalanche conditions for Annapurna I?
Check the avalanche forecast at dhm.gov.np before any trip with snow on the route.
Can you hire a guide to climb Annapurna I?
Yes. Guide services that lead climbs of Annapurna I include 8K Expeditions and Seven Summit Treks.
Climb Annapurna I with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list