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- Dhaulagiri I
26,795 ft · Himalayas, Nepal
Dhaulagiri I
Dhaulagiri I is a 26,795 ft peak in the Himalayas, Nepal. The standard route is the Northeast Ridge: 12 mi, 11,211 ft of gain, Class 5.
Dhaulagiri I at a glance
- Elevation26,795 ft8,167 m
- RouteNortheast RidgeClass 5
- Distance12 mi11,211 ft gain
- Time6 – 8 wksExtreme effort
- SeasonApr – May
- RangeHimalayasNepal
Climbing the Northeast Ridge
Fly to Pokhara, Nepal, then drive to Beni and Darbang, where the trek begins. A Nepal climbing permit plus liaison officer and fees are required, arranged through an operator. The approach to Base Camp follows the Myagdi Valley, about 40 to 45 miles one way over 7 to 9 days. The Northeast Ridge is the standard route and requires full expedition logistics: fixed ropes, multiple high camps, and complex glacier travel. Objective hazards are severe, with avalanches, seracs, and icefall throughout. Weather windows are short, mostly late April into May.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (65–85 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Expedition Mittens
Trekking Poles
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
Sleeping Bag (-40°F to -20°F)
Sleeping Pad
Oxygen System
Water
First-Aid Kit
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Two-Way Radio
Emergency Bivy
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Down Suit
What to watch for
- Avalanches
- Steep exposure
- High winds
- Extreme cold
- High altitude
- Storms
- Remote location
- Icefall
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Serac fall
- Altitude sickness
- Technical climbing
- Rockfall
Quests with Dhaulagiri I
Eight ThousandersPeaks near Dhaulagiri I
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Dhaulagiri I?
Dhaulagiri I is 26,795 feet (8,167 m) tall. It is in the Himalayas, Nepal.
How does Dhaulagiri I rank among the Eight Thousanders?
At 26,795 feet, Dhaulagiri I is the 7th highest of the 14 Eight Thousanders. The highest is Mount Everest.
How hard is it to climb Dhaulagiri I?
The Northeast Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 12 miles with 11,211 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Dhaulagiri I?
Dhaulagiri I is an expedition: most climbers plan 6 – 8 weeks for the Northeast Ridge, much of it spent acclimatizing between camps.
Is Dhaulagiri I dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need oxygen to climb Dhaulagiri I?
Most climbers use it. Supplemental oxygen is on the gear list for the Northeast Ridge, and only a small number of very experienced climbers summit without it.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Dhaulagiri I?
Yes. At 26,795 feet, Dhaulagiri I is high enough for serious altitude illness. Climbers acclimatize over days or weeks, climbing high and sleeping low, and descend at the first signs of trouble.
When is the best time to climb Dhaulagiri I?
The usual climbing window is April to May. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Where can I check avalanche conditions for Dhaulagiri I?
Check the avalanche forecast at dhm.gov.np before any trip with snow on the route.
Can you hire a guide to climb Dhaulagiri I?
Yes. Guide services that lead climbs of Dhaulagiri I include Adventure Consultants and Protrek Adventures.
Climb Dhaulagiri I with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list