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- Breithorn Gendarm
13,471 ft · Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland
Breithorn Gendarm
Breithorn Gendarm is a 13,471 ft peak in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland. The standard route is the Breithorn Traverse: 7 mi, 2,200 ft of gain, AD-.
Breithorn Gendarm at a glance
- Elevation13,471 ft4,105 m
- RouteBreithorn TraverseAD-
- Distance7 mi2,200 ft gain
- Time1–2 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeWallis AlpsItaly/Switzerland
Climbing the Breithorn Traverse
From Zermatt, Switzerland, ride the Klein Matterhorn cable car and cross onto the Breithorn Traverse (AD-), reaching this fourth summit, a gendarme on the twin-peak section of the ridge. There is no independent route, just a point reached in sequence along the crest. It is corniced and continuously exposed with serious drops on the Italian side, a wholly different undertaking from the western summit's F-graded normal route, so short-rope and gauge cornices carefully. Watch rockfall and hidden crevasses on the approach. It shares its outing with the other Breithorn traverse summits; log distance and gain once.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
Approach Shoes- Slings
- Nut Tool
- Cams / Nuts
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Knife-edge ridge
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Cornices
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- High altitude
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Altitude sickness
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Breithorn Gendarm
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Breithorn Gendarm
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Breithorn Gendarm?
Breithorn Gendarm is 13,471 feet (4,105 m) tall. It is in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland. It is also known as Breithorn (eastern Twin Peak), eastern twin, Gendarm.
How does Breithorn Gendarm rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,471 feet, Breithorn Gendarm is the 51st highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Breithorn Gendarm?
The Breithorn Traverse is graded AD- on the alpine scale, meaning fairly difficult: sustained snow, ice or rock that needs real climbing skills. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 7 miles with 2,200 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Breithorn Gendarm?
Most climbers plan 1–2 days for the Breithorn Traverse, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Breithorn Gendarm dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Breithorn Gendarm?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Breithorn Traverse for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Breithorn Gendarm?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Breithorn Gendarm reaches 13,471 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Breithorn Gendarm?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Breithorn Gendarm with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list