13,425 ft · Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland
Pollux
Pollux is a 13,425 ft peak in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via SW Ridge: 9 mi, 5,620 ft of gain, PD.
Pollux at a glance
- Elevation13,425 ft4,091 m
- RouteNormal Route via SW RidgePD
- Distance9 mi5,620 ft gain
- Time2 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeWallis AlpsItaly/Switzerland
Climbing the Normal Route via SW Ridge
From Zermatt, Switzerland, or the Italian side above Champoluc, approach the Quintino Sella Hut, then summit by the SW ridge (PD), the smaller of the Castor and Pollux twins and slightly the more technical of the two. A short rocky step on the summit ridge is protected by a fixed chain, otherwise the climbing is straightforward glacier and snow. Rope up for the crevassed glacier below and watch rockfall on the summit rocks. It is very commonly paired with Castor over two days from the same hut, which is the usual way climbers collect both. Budget two days for the outing.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (25–35 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Heavyweight Gloves
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Pollux
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Pollux
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Pollux?
Pollux is 13,425 feet (4,091 m) tall. It is in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland.
How does Pollux rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,425 feet, Pollux is the 55th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Pollux?
The Normal Route via SW Ridge is graded PD on the alpine scale, meaning slightly difficult: some scrambling, steeper snow or simple glacier travel. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 9 miles with 5,620 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Pollux?
Most climbers plan 2 days for the Normal Route via SW Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Pollux dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Pollux?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via SW Ridge for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Pollux?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Pollux reaches 13,425 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Pollux?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Pollux with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list