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- Breithorn
13,661 ft · Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland
Breithorn
Breithorn is a 13,661 ft peak in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via SSW Flank: 3 mi, 1,377 ft of gain, F.
Breithorn at a glance
- Elevation13,661 ft4,163 m
- RouteNormal Route via SSW FlankF
- Distance3 mi1,377 ft gain
- Time1 dayVery Hard effort
- SeasonJun–Sep
- RangeWallis AlpsItaly/Switzerland
Climbing the Normal Route via SSW Flank
From Zermatt, Switzerland, ride the Klein Matterhorn cable car to 3,883 m, leaving a flat glacier plateau crossing and a 35-degree firn flank to the summit ridge. The Via Normale via the SSW flank (F) is the most accessible 4,000er in the Alps and the only genuine day trip on this list. Roped glacier travel is still mandatory, since crevasses are hidden and the summit ridge is corniced. It is heavily trafficked, so expect queues and many inexperienced guided parties, and start early to beat the crowds and afternoon cloud. Reckon on roughly 400 m of gain from the lift.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (25–35 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Cornices
- Steep exposure
- High winds
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Breithorn
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Breithorn
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Breithorn?
Breithorn is 13,661 feet (4,163 m) tall. It is in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland. It is also known as Breithorn (Western Summit), Western Summit.
How does Breithorn rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,661 feet, Breithorn is the 39th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Breithorn?
The Normal Route via SSW Flank is graded F on the alpine scale, meaning easy: mostly walking, though glacier travel may still need a rope. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 3 miles with 1,377 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Breithorn?
Most climbers plan 1 day for the Normal Route via SSW Flank, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Breithorn dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Breithorn?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via SSW Flank for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Breithorn?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Breithorn reaches 13,661 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Breithorn?
The usual climbing window is June to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Breithorn with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list