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- Cho Oyu
26,864 ft · Himalayas, Nepal Border
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu is a 26,864 ft peak in the Himalayas, Nepal Border. The standard route is the Northwest Ridge Route: 22 mi, 10,800 ft of gain, Class 5.
Cho Oyu at a glance
- Elevation26,864 ft8,188 m
- RouteNorthwest Ridge RouteClass 5
- Distance22 mi10,800 ft gain
- Time4 – 7 wksExtreme effort
- SeasonSep – Oct
- RangeHimalayasNepal Border
Climbing the Northwest Ridge Route
Approach typically from Tibet via Tingri and the Chinese basecamp at 5,700m. The west ridge from Tibet is the standard route, considered the most accessible of the 8000-meter peaks. Despite this reputation, it still requires full expedition logistics with multiple high camps, fixed ropes, and careful acclimatization over 4-7 weeks. Crevasses and seracs present hazards throughout. Chinese or Nepali permits required depending on approach. Fall season (September-October) generally offers more stable weather than spring. Supplemental oxygen commonly used above Camp 2.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (65–85 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Expedition Mittens
Trekking Poles
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
Sleeping Bag (-40°F to -20°F)
Sleeping Pad
Oxygen System
Water
First-Aid Kit
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Two-Way Radio
Emergency Bivy
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Down Suit
What to watch for
- Crevasses
- Avalanches
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Storms
- Extreme cold
- Glacier travel
- Serac fall
- Steep exposure
- Technical climbing
- High winds
Quests with Cho Oyu
Eight ThousandersPeaks near Cho Oyu
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Cho Oyu?
Cho Oyu is 26,864 feet (8,188 m) tall. It is in the Himalayas, Nepal Border.
How does Cho Oyu rank among the Eight Thousanders?
At 26,864 feet, Cho Oyu is the 6th highest of the 14 Eight Thousanders. The highest is Mount Everest.
How hard is it to climb Cho Oyu?
The Northwest Ridge Route is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 22 miles with 10,800 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Cho Oyu?
Cho Oyu is an expedition: most climbers plan 4 – 7 weeks for the Northwest Ridge Route, much of it spent acclimatizing between camps.
Is Cho Oyu dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need oxygen to climb Cho Oyu?
Most climbers use it. Supplemental oxygen is on the gear list for the Northwest Ridge Route, and only a small number of very experienced climbers summit without it.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Cho Oyu?
Yes. At 26,864 feet, Cho Oyu is high enough for serious altitude illness. Climbers acclimatize over days or weeks, climbing high and sleeping low, and descend at the first signs of trouble.
When is the best time to climb Cho Oyu?
The usual climbing window is September to October. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Where can I check avalanche conditions for Cho Oyu?
Check the avalanche forecast at dhm.gov.np before any trip with snow on the route.
Can you hire a guide to climb Cho Oyu?
Yes. Guide services that lead climbs of Cho Oyu include Alpine Ascents and Alpenglow Expeditions.
Climb Cho Oyu with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list