27,940 ft · Himalayas, Nepal Border
Lhotse
Lhotse is a 27,940 ft peak in the Himalayas, Nepal Border. The standard route is the West Face: 25 mi, 10,341 ft of gain, Class 5.
Lhotse at a glance
- Elevation27,940 ft8,516 m
- RouteWest FaceClass 5
- Distance25 mi10,341 ft gain
- Time6 – 9 wksExtreme effort
- SeasonApr – May
- RangeHimalayasNepal Border
Climbing the West Face
Approach via Lukla and the classic Everest Base Camp trek through the Khumbu Valley. Most teams climb the Lhotse Face as a shared route with Everest expeditions up to Camp 3, then traverse to the Lhotse summit pyramid. Full expedition logistics required with high camps and fixed ropes. Rockfall from the upper face is a serious and unpredictable hazard. Typically climbed in spring season (April-May) alongside Everest attempts. Nepali permits required. The fourth highest mountain on Earth. Previous high-altitude expedition experience essential. Often combined with Everest attempt.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (65–85 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Expedition Mittens
Trekking Poles
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
Sleeping Bag (-40°F to -20°F)
Sleeping Pad
Oxygen System
Water
First-Aid Kit
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Two-Way Radio
Emergency Bivy
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Down Suit
What to watch for
- Rockfall
- Steep exposure
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Extreme cold
- Storms
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Technical climbing
- High winds
- Avalanches
- Remote location
- Icefall
Quests with Lhotse
Eight ThousandersPeaks near Lhotse
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Lhotse?
Lhotse is 27,940 feet (8,516 m) tall. It is in the Himalayas, Nepal Border.
How does Lhotse rank among the Eight Thousanders?
At 27,940 feet, Lhotse is the 4th highest of the 14 Eight Thousanders. The highest is Mount Everest.
How hard is it to climb Lhotse?
The West Face is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 25 miles with 10,341 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Lhotse?
Lhotse is an expedition: most climbers plan 6 – 9 weeks for the West Face, much of it spent acclimatizing between camps.
Is Lhotse dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need oxygen to climb Lhotse?
Most climbers use it. Supplemental oxygen is on the gear list for the West Face, and only a small number of very experienced climbers summit without it.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Lhotse?
Yes. At 27,940 feet, Lhotse is high enough for serious altitude illness. Climbers acclimatize over days or weeks, climbing high and sleeping low, and descend at the first signs of trouble.
When is the best time to climb Lhotse?
The usual climbing window is April to May. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Where can I check avalanche conditions for Lhotse?
Check the avalanche forecast at dhm.gov.np before any trip with snow on the route.
Can you hire a guide to climb Lhotse?
Yes. Guide services that lead climbs of Lhotse include International Mountain Guides and Adventure Consultants.
Climb Lhotse with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list